Friday, March 13, 2026

Agra Sights - Agra Fort

Not far from the Taj Mahal on the right bank of Yamuna is the Agra Fort or Qila Agra or the Agra Red Fort which precedes the Taj Mahal by a century and a half or more. Semi circular in shape and built over 94 acres with double ramparts, bastions and four gates (the Amar Singh Gate through which we enter, the Khizri Gate the leads to the Yamuna, the Delhi Gate and the Akbar Gate. The Mughal Emperors ruled from here starting with Babur, Humayun, Akbar. Jahangir and Shahjahan until in 1658, Aurangzeb shifted the capital to Delhi. The Fort saw its glory days during Akbar's time and was a centre for learning and arts, commerce and religion. The Agra Fort is a UNESCO site.


Before the Mughals, the Agra Fort was ruled by the Lodis, in Sikandar Lodi's reign (1504-1505). Babur defeated Ibrahim Lodi at Panipat and took over the Agra Fort in 1526. In 1540, Sher Shah Suri, drove Humayun away and ruled from her till 1555 which was when the Mughals came back and reclaimed the kingdom and the Fort until 1761. From 1761 -74 the Jats of Bharatpur laid claim for a few years until the Mughals came back and ruled from 1774-85. In 1785 the Marathas took control and ruled till 1903 which is when they lost the third battle of Panipat and the power shifted to the East India Company, thereafter the British Raj and then Independent India.


Of the 500 buildings they say were within the Fort complex hardly 30 survive as they were destroyed by the British. The entrance to the Fort is very impressive with a grand entrance through the Amar Singh Gate (he was a great soldier who served with the Mughals). As is typical with Forts the path turns at right angles and there's another huge red sandstone gate. 


We walk in and went to the Bengali Mahal I think where Arman said were the quarters of Akbar and Jodha bai. Then came a baoli and then suddenly the red sandstone building ends and the white marble designs of Shahjahan show up. 

Diwan-e-Khaas

Diwan-e-Aam to the right and the Moti Masjid in the background to the left

There's the Diwan-e-Khas and the two buildings for Jahanara and Roshanara side by the side. From both we can see the Taj Mahal at a distance and Arman tells us that Shajahan designed this part of the Fort so that he could see the Taj from whichever point he was in. Of course, the Agra Fort is where Aurangzeb imprisoned Shahjahan and this is where he died.

We saw the Diwan-e Aam outside the palace complex and the Moti Masjid in the distance. A large part of the Fort is taken over by the armed forces so only about a quarter is open for tourists. Again, a very impressive structure.

We headed out and saw a statue of Chatrapati Shivaji and it struck me that this was where Aurangzeb had imprisoned Shivaji and from where Shivaji escaped with his son in a sweet basket. We headed out bought some petha and headed back. Good, short visit.         


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