Monday, October 12, 2026

Hyderabad by Walk - Abids

Mukhthyar and Tareekh-e-Deccan announced a walk in Abids on Sunday and I signed up for it with Vasu and his friend Srikanth from our college days. We met Mukhthyar and the others at the Nizam College gates which was the starting point. 

Nizam College

Gun Foundry

Now Nizam College, started in 1887 under the reign of Mahboob Ali Khan the 6th Nizam, is a place where we played many cricket matches in our college days and which was also the palace built by the nobleman Fakhrul-ul-Mulk and was called something like Asad Bagh or something. Mukhthyar reeled off some famous names from the college - Azharuddin, Balakrishna, ML Jaisimha, Rakesh Sharma, Kiran Kumar Reddy, Shyam Benegal and so on. Srikanth and I both realised we had taken admission here before getting our final admission in Engineering back in 1984. The first Principal of the college was Aghorenath Chattopadhyay, father of Sarojini Naidu.

Art Deco, Gun Foundry


We walked into the lane next to Lepakshi building (the same one me and Ram would take to go to school in the 1977-82 period - get off the bus at Nizam College and walk to All Saints High School past the Gun Foundry and get into the infamous tunnel that led to the St Joseph's Cathedral). But in all these years, despite knowing that the school area is called Gun Foundry I never had the curiosity to find out what this Gun Foundry was and where it was. It is a brick structure built in 1785 AD that one passes right behind Lepakshi and this was where they would make the many cannon and cannonballs for the Nizams (also called Top ka Sancha). The French were actively helping the Nizams in that period and Mukthyar said there was one General de Bussy who was quite scary - something like Gabbar Singh of Sholay and his name was used to terrorise people, mainly stubborn children. More interestingly it was Michel Raymond who set it up.

Wedding Cars

Mahboobia Girls School

Light House

We walked around and saw a couple of Art Deco buildings of the 1917 vintage and moved back to the main road. I could see one small shop with the name 'Light House' and was reminded of the infamous Lighthouse theatre of our school days, known for showing soft porn Malayalam films such as 'Wine and Women' all year long. Now Lighthouse is long gone and only this little shop reminds us of it. 


State Bank of Hyderabad

Erstwhile Bombay Cafe

On the right, in front of Mahboobia Girls School (1907) were parked an array of wedding cars, brightly painted luxury cars that one can hire for weddings - this has been going on since our school days. Then there were those Impalas and other such cars. Now a more modern fleet appears to have replaced them. One wonders how many weddings and couples and happy occasions these cars must have been part of - if only they could tell their stories.

St George's Church

William Palmer's tomb

We stopped for a moment at the majestic State Bank of Hyderabad building, established in 1941 by the 7th Nizams as the state's own bank when under their rule. Then it was nationalised and became State Bank of Hyderabad. Now it is a SBI office and they have hung many flexis all over advertising many boring schemes completely spoiling the appearance of the building. 


Islamia Jamatkhana, Chirag Ali Lane

Next to it is the Blue Sea Restaurant which was once called Bombay Cafe in our school times circa 1980-82. I remember we used to visit both the canteen in the SBH where we would get tiffins for as low as 15 paisa (dirt cheap even then) and tandoor mutton on Sunday afternoons at Bombay Cafe when we had school league matches. And of course our walk through Chapel Road to Nampally to catch a bus home after school past Sujatha School and Stanley School and the lovely chapel to the left.

Hindustani Church


Golden Threshold

Further down the Abids road we walked past John's Bakery where we ate many doughnuts during our school days and into St George's Church which is adjacent to St George's Grammar School. It's a 1834 structure and a beautiful one at that. Mukhthyar took us to a small cemetery by the side with the most fascinating pink flowers in the creepers or vines and told us the story of Mr William Palmer who is buried there along with some other important people. Palmer was a wealthy and smart banker who apparently lent money at high interest rates to the Nizams (who were not very rich at that times) to maintain the British battalions for their protection - part of the Subsidiary Alliance project of theirs. Interestingly, the inability to pay the interests and maintain the troops were what led to the Nizams having to cede much of their land to the British.

General Post Office


We stepped back on to the Abids road and drifted towards Chirag Ali lane, passing the Little Flower School (which also had the Junior college then but now it moved to Uppal). We passed by a couple of old structures now maintained by the government or have become offices. In Chirag Ali lane (Moulvi Chirag Ali (1844-95) a scholar and reformer). We passed the majestic Ismaili Jamathkhana building which is a Dawoodi Bohra centre i think - it is out of bounds and its entire demeanour says keep off. 


Palace Theatre Complex, where the Abids Departmental Store stood

Reddy Boys Hostel


Further down the road we stopped at an interesting church - St Luke's Hindustani Church where sermons are given in Urdu apparently. I did not pay much attention to this building though I passed it many times. We hit Nampally Road (reminded me of Meena Alexander and her book of the same name) and passed the iconic Golden Threshold which was the home of Sarojini Naidu . The building is named after a collection of her poems of the same name. She donated it to the Central University which operated here for a while before shifting to Gachibowli and its sprawling campus. Some good friends of mine have studied here.

Bachelor's Quarters

Onwards to GPO and Grand Hotel which is apparently the oldest Irani hotel in Hyderabad, where we had a cup of chai and decided against the biscuits. Then a few steps to the Reddy's Boys Hostel which is an old and impressive building and is from the same Reddy's Women's College fame - both being promoted by Raja Bahadur Venkata Rama Reddy, a high ranking police official and the first Kotwal of Hyderabad. This hostel is for the poor Reddy boys apparently and looks to be in great condition, well maintained. 

Moazzam Jahi Market


We went back past the GPO, stopped at the Palace theatre complex where Mukhthyar gave some idea on why it was called Abids - named after Mr Albert Abid - an Armenian valet of the 6th Nizam who had a departmental store at the same place where the Palace theatre complex stands (there's a picture of that store on Wikipedia, circa  1897). I remember there was once a Ajanta Cool Drinks shop in that complex. From there we walked past Ramakrishna theatre and stopped at the interesting 'Bachelors Quarters' building which apparently housed a lot of artists in those days. It is a quaint building and I never noticed it in my life. 



Across the road was the Moazzam Jahi Market, named after the second son of the 7th Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan, which is iconic as the first mall - the shops have numbers - groceries, eateries, a gun smith. On the outside there were the famous ice cream shops with their wrought iron chairs and tables. 


Abids Second Hand Book Market


We saw many reel makers and wedding shoot people here, took our group picture and parted ways.

We walked back to the Abids, past the second hand book market which was just opening up and towards Taj Mahal Hotel where we had some breakfast. From there all the way back to Mahboobia Girls school where we parked. Mukhthyar came with us since he left some stuff in my car. And in a very thoughtful gesture he gifted me a lovely picture book of Hyderabad's iconic structure brought out by Express Publications along with a hand written note for me. 

Me and Mukhthyar and his thoughtful gift 



I was greatly touched by the gesture, thanked him, took a picture with him and we left after that.

             

H - A Novel - V.R.Chaithanya

This is Chaithanya's second novel and it is distinctly different from the first which was a diary of a violent dacoity. It is also written in a different style which I found intriguing.


The story is of Honey, a girl who lives in Gujarat and comes from a family of Panchals, or master craftsmen. While growing up she has a comfortable life - a loving father and mother, schooling etc. Small bits of trauma creep in certain incidents like her father missing a train when he gets off at a station but appears again later causing some kind of an abandonment issue with her. She has another trauma - a boy she meets through a letter writing exercise at school seems to be liking her but the exercise is terminated as the boy and girl are getting too intimate. 

Honey grows up, writes exams, meets some interesting boys, joins an Art College and chooses photography. In the process she falls in love and gets rejected, likes a guy with whom she shares a peculiar connection where they seem to photograph the other without realising it. She rejects that chap though after travelling a bit with him. Then she finds the love of her life who she marries and has children with.

After her marriage her father passes away - which to me was the part that was very well written - nowhere does he describe the death or the person - it hangs around heavily with the weight of the unsaid. Meanwhile Honey's husband explains to her that he has the capacity to share his dreams with people he is close to which makes it a little uncomfortable initially because they are both having his dreams but then she finds comfort in it too. Two children, old loves coming back, old connections relooked at, a lot of paranormal activity almost, Honey finally makes peace with her traumas thanks to these shared dreams and at one point she discovers she has similar powers too which she can use to heal herself.

I found the idea of dream sharing interesting as also the other aspect of people appearing in each others photographs by chance. It makes Honey some kind of a paranormal spirit and she comes across like that - hazy, in the background, no specific wants or intense desires, flowing along with life, treading carefully. At times Chaithanya goes deep into certain topics which are interesting in a way - be it the root bridges of Meghalaya, the life of the Panchals or stuff like that. 

Was an interesting read overall. I did have trouble making the connections between the key incidents and went back and made them. The writing is good and interesting and so is the style - distant, not probing too deep. I felt it could have been enhanced a bit by exploring her deeper emotions, her motivations etc which would have made her more real and more relatable. But Chaithanya is a writer with promise, someone who writes well and with discipline and I am looking forward to seeing more of his work in future.         

The Comfort Crisis - Michael Easter

Abhinay gifts me some of the best books and this was one of them. Author Michael Easter begins the book with his out-of-comfort zone activity - joining pal Donnie Vincent, a bow hunter and documentary filmmaker who loves the wilderness, and his cinematographer William Altman, on a 33 day hunt of a caribou herd in the Alaskan wilds far away from civilisation. Donnie spends 6 months at a time alone in the Alaskan Wild (and loves it) and his documentary 'The River Divided' is proof of his work. While writing about his crazy journey in the cold, wet, wild, hunting caribou, Easter tells us about the comfort crisis we are all in and how it is making us less of what we are capable of. I fully agree. Easter meets a bunch of experts in various fields and cites many studies and experiments to drive home his points. I have not mentioned them here but only gave a gist of their conversations with Easter and their insights. 



Easter points out that most of our modern problems are about the slightest discomfort (not getting WiFi, running water, late cab, something not working) as opposed to real discomfort (like hunger, physical struggle). This 'comfort creep' shrinks us an reduces our capacities. To grow to our potential and live fully we must embrace Misogi, the Japanese term for going through really hard things as a process of purification. Since we do not have any hard things in our life we must pick and choose them to toughen ourselves up - like the hard things must be 10x your capability so you are stretched mentally, spiritually, physically. When we put ourselves through these Misogi - it stretches limits, we have a clear goal - it is something akin to being in the flow state. 

Of course Easter says there are two rules - Rule 1 - it has to be really hard and Rule 2 - don't die while doing it. Doing really hard things means you have a 50% chance of failing. (Reminded me of 'Measure what Matters' by John Doerr where he speaks of the concept of OKRs which are 10x goals.) Easter says that mortals benefit from epic physical trails (he cites examples of how some tribes send men out to hunt a male lion as a rite of passage!) Simply put, the only things we look back with some pride are our hardships that we have endured and have stretched us. 

So pick your Misogi and get going to toughen up and live your life more fully. The three stages of Misogi are Separation, Transition and Incorporation. The idea is that what does not kill you makes you stronger. We toughen up with adversity.

Easter explores the idea of why time seems to expand or contract. When we are doing something new, our experience seems longer because we are experiencing expanded time. So doing something new which makes us fully involved is one way to mark time. 

City living depresses us. One needs to build capacity to be alone. He urges us to rediscover boredom because it helps us to be alone, to find creative bursts within us. Try to be away from a screen and be OK with boredom. (We are so addicted to our cell phones - the average American he says touches his phone 2617 times in a time and has 2.5 hours of screen time.) From 2000-15 the average attention span of people fell by 33% and 90% of this is due to screen time. 

Easter says we must deal with boredom (don't reach for your screen) and find ways to be productive. Allow mind wandering. He suggest being out in the nature (without your phone) - called forest bathing - 20 minutes outside, 3 times a week - is known to drop stress levels. No phones is a rule on these times. If you cannot get out into the open, putting plants in the office, having a view of nature helps. Time in wild spaces is the most beneficial of the lot - so the prescribed time for greatest stress release is 5 hours a month in the wild.

He also suggests being comfortable with silence. He talks of the Orfield labs which has a room that has complete silence - a state that makes people very uncomfortable and want to get out of it. We cannot handle silence. But silence heals. People who listened to natural sounds like sounds of water reduced their stress levels significantly. Just 2 minutes of silence relaxes.

He then speaks of hunger. 70% of Americans are obese which takes an average of 5%-20% off your life. To be healthy, he suggests tracking your food - how much and what you eat, weigh calories, daily routines, sleep schedules, stress and energy levels, daily weight, work outs and step counts. This data will help in being aware of the input and output. We tend to eat more when we are stressed. Hunger is of two types - real hunger vs reward hunger. (He suggests we walk instead of eating.) Find what stresses you when you reach out to eat more. The final solution - eat anything long as you keep track of calories - 2000 calories per day are prescribed. The average plate should have a quarter of animal protein, a quarter of white grains and a half of vegetables or fruits. Complement this with having 500 calorie days for two days, or 700 calorie days for 5 days, having 16 hour fasting windows so your body gets to the autophagy state where it can take out the trash in the body. The body needs 15-16 hours to metabolise food (so skip breakfast or dinner). If we cut breakfast and have an early dinner our body gets 12-16 hour window to cleanse. End game - be hungry - it burns fat and keeps you healthy. Fast as much as you can.

Easter suggests we think about death every day. We are insignificant in the passage of time. In our 13.8 billion years of evolution plotted on a calendar year for reference, humans have appeared on the scene on the 31st of December at 11.59.33 pm! We are that insignificant! In Bhutan, he meets monks who look at death as a normal thing and they in fact suggest that one must think about death three times a day - morning, afternoon and evening. (One of the monks is the author of the book 'The Fine Art of Living and Manifesting a Peaceful Death'). We are all in the process of dying right now. The best way to be more aware of our life and death is to be mindful. Remember that we are all heading towards the cliff and we will all fall off the cliff - some sooner and some later. We just do not know when we will fall off though.  Be OK with this state of impermanence. We suffer because we try to hold on to that which is changing. Be curious about death, do not cling to life. Being aware of impending death helps us prioritise.

In Misogi we come to a point when we are convinced that we have nothing left - yet find some more gas. The cavemen would have 200 minutes of exercise per day versus the now prescribed for health which is 150 minutes a week! The cavemen  were hunting and foraging and could carry weights of 50 pounds and more easily. Easter advocates the Ruck Shuffle - puts a 45 pound steel plate in the back pack and walks. Rucking is strength and cardio rolled in one.

Overall Easter says we must put ourselves through physical discomfort. There is no such thing as too much exercise. Exercising 7-12 hours a week reduces heart disease by 25% and cancer by 22%. Walking is good (when we run a 150 pound person loads 1400 pounds on their knees as against 470 pounds when walking). Carry weights like your suitcases etc he says, its good for you.

Easter and his pals finally track down and shoot a caribou (Easter is given the honour), skin it, cut it up into portions, carry some 120 kgs of flesh around with them until their plane lands and then head back into civilisation - changed men certainly. There is some talk of whether hunting is ethical etc but each to his own. I liked what someone said - if you are a non-vegetarian do not make noise about the ethics of hunting.

I agree with all that he says -  do things out of your comfort zone, get into the wild, be alone, be OK with silence, with boredom, eat healthy, stay hungry, be mindful, walk, carry weights, be aware of death - life gets better and fuller. I have started thinking of death to start with and am trying to stay hungry.

Thanks Abhinay. Lovely book. Now to find some real Misogis.       

Friday, October 9, 2026

The Bentota Days - Day 4

Since the idea was to leave the Hotel Eden at Beruwala by 9, I headed off for a long walk on the beach.
 Another barefoot one hour walk that was very refreshing. I walked to the end and got back. Dressed up, breakfast and we were on our way. 
Mendis drove us along the coastal road which had some stunning architecture - government buildings, churches, temples, schools, homes - quite stunning.
 Unfortunately I couldn't not l get pictures as we sped off quite fast. 
In Colombo Mendis drove us along the Marine Drive which had many shacks and restaurants along the beach. There's a rail line right next to the beach with some quaint railway stations - you have to cross the tracks to get to the shacks. 
Mendis then showed us the Port City, a whole city that is being constructed from reclaimed land. It is a very well planned, ambitious project. Lovely. We drove through and city and then headed out to the airport.
Thanks Naresh. Lovely trip. 


Thursday, October 8, 2026

The Bentota Days - Day 3

I woke up early and walked 20 minutes to the 1734 Kande Vihara temple. The walk was pleasant with many quaint houses in a quiet neighborhood abutting the lagoon, a railway crossing and finally the temple which is on a hill. A huge golden statue of the Buddha appears on the hill. 
On top of the hill is a Vishnu temple, idols of Shiva and others. People were lighting incense sticks, pouring oil into lamps and lighting them, offering fruits to the gods. Families, school kids, college going kids were all visiting the temple early in the day. 

I returned from the temple and after a quick breakfast we hired a boat to explore the lagoon. We didn't realise it was a mangrove, think with vegetation and animal life - a crocodile, huge monitor lizards, kingfishers, monkeys and so on. It was a beautiful 45 minute boat ride.
On our return we went our ways - Naresh into the water and me walking along the beach. A good 45 minutes later I returned and we read our books until it was time for lunch. 
Post lunch I stayed up to watch the heavy rain and finished reading 'Comfort Crisis' by Michael Easter. All hopes of a long walk were dashed as the rain didn't abate like in the previous days.
We gravitated to the sportsbar where Naresh tried to teach me snooker and we played a game. Then we settled down to listen to some lovely live music. I requested the young singer to sing 'Words' and he obliged. 
Then a lovely dinner and back to 128.