Thursday, February 27, 2025

Hyderabad By Walk - Nampally Sarai, Nampally Railway Station and Ek Minar Masjid

 Sunnie and I decided to head to Nampally and check that area out. We started off at 6 am as usual, parked near the IDBI office and walked past Public Gardens and headed straight to Nampally Sarai - it showed up when I searched for sights near Nampally. And I was surprised by its location because I must have passed it for over forty years now and never noticed it! 

If you are coming towards Nampally station from Moazzamjahi Market and turn into the station area, it falls to the left. Currently it is a dilapidated building, but a huge structure which I wonder how I missed all these years. The place is full of taxis and one taxi guy came running the moment he saw us and asked us what we wanted and when we said we were just looking he told us it was now a taxi stand and there was nothing to see. Seeing us inch forward even after his boring pitch he went another step to dissuade us to warning us that there were dogs. We nodded and walked in.

Nampally Sarai aka Tipu Khan Sarai

 As with many structures our state governments were in a big hurry to tear it down and build some structures here which would fetch everyone some benefits. Thankfully the building has been protected and named as a heritage structure which means that tearing it down won't happen.


The Sarai was a resting place which was constructed for travellers coming in from the Nizam;s Railway station at Nampally. It was built in 1919 by the sixth Nizam Mir Mahboob Ali Khan apparently in memory o the First World War Treaty. Also known as Sulah Sarai.


Currently is has a heritage structure status, thanks to INTACH (2011)

Nampally Railway Station

We walked over towards the historic Nampally Railway Station where we had gone for many send offs and receptions. Been years since I went there though. Anyway got a picture of the station from far and we scooted off along the road by the side.


Originally called the Hyderabad Deccan Railway Station (1883-1950), it was built by the Nizam's Guaranteed State Railway Company (it was privately built by the Nizam and operated under a guarantee from the State). Then Nizam's Railway was consolidated with Hyderabad-Godavari Valley Railway (HGVR) In 1951 both HGVR abd NGSR were nationalised.
 

Favorite memories - dropping Mom off with Mythily when they went to Faridabad, shipping my Chetak to Pune for my second job, meeting Vasant who worked in the Railways at the ticket counter, seeing Raja and co off and having to deal with an irate auto rickshaw guy who wanted to get paid an extra ten bucks and so on.

Ek Minar Masjid

A short walk from the Nampally station along its left side and we saw a few old buildings. 


And then we came across this beautiful masjid. Now this is an impressive structure right in the centre of the chaurasta  which is called the Ek Minar masjid. One huge minaret.

Ek Minar masjid

All around this masjid are little shops selling second hand furniture. I remember Choudary used to have his friends here from his demolition team - when they demolish structures they normally salvage the doors, windows, furniture etc if possible and you can see tons of such old doors, windows and stuff here that you can bargain and buy. Choudary was very good and this and he bought a few such stuff for his house.

A close up of Ek Minar

Sunnie and I checked the Google maps for Yousufain dargah which seems to be close to Ek Minar. The map pointed straight ahead. There was a cute little restaurant which beckoned for a chai but we plodded on.


Wednesday, February 26, 2025

Pillalamarri - 800 Year Old Banyan Tree at Mahbub Nagar

Pillalamarri is an 800 year old banyan tree in Mahbubnagar. I visited the place with Vinod and Sunnie - Vinod works there and Sunnie joined us. To get there from the main Mahbubnagar town, we needed to cross a railway line. Tickets were sold for the banyan park and the little zoo which were bought - and we entered the area. 

Apparently the tree got some disease and was in danger of dying as recently as 6-7 years ago and was revived and is now alive. The process on how they revived the tree was also shown in some board with pictures.

Vinod and Sunnie - enroute

Main tree 

Its name is because of the many pillalu (children) that the marri (banyan tree) has had thanks to its many off shoots. The main tree has spread across a large area of some 3-4 acres and its such a lovely sight to behold. 


Buddha

Serpentine

Tombs of the two saints Kamal Hussain and Jamal Hussain 

Ever since the tree had trouble it has been fenced off and we cannot touch it. There is a Buddha statue there, some benches to sit, a dargah of two sufi saints Kamal Hussain and Jamal Hussain (another version is that it is called Peerlamarri (which means Saints banyan). We sat there for a while, took pics and headed out.

Sri Rajarajeshwara temple





Outside the banyan tree park there is a reconstructed Sri Rajarajeshwara temple which has been trans-located from Erladinne on the banks of Krishna river. Its beautiful - some pilgrims were resting there - apparently on their trek to Srisailam according to Vinod. And there is an Archaeological museum which has some lovely 3AD sculptures in it. We spent some time in both places and headed back.

  

Breakfast of Champions - Kurt Vonnegut

Looked like an interesting title and I had never read a single Vonnegut book so I bought it in Abids. It looked like an easy read but it was not. It goes all over the place and demands your attention in a funny way - it requires a space between mind1 and mind 2. Apparently his most famous book is titled 'Slaughterhouse Five' which is based on his personal experience in the army when he witnessed the destruction of Dresden.



Anyway this book is full of illustrations which drive the story forward and make for easier reading. The book is also titled Goodbye Blue Monday but it never is mentioned  on the cover and it is his 7th novel where Dwayne Hoover a car dealership owner who is slowly losing his marbles is heading to meet Kilgore Trout a broke, sci fi author who has many books published without his knowledge. Along their journeys towards each other they find themselves meeting people like truck drivers and car salesmen, salesmen, receptionists who are mistresses, black people, and towards the end they find that Trout, who has a very rich man as his fan, has won the Nobel Prize and Hoover commits suicide after being inspired by Trout's novel.

Its apparently brilliant work. I could not make sense of it while reading and wish those who read it luck. Apparently a film was made based on the book with Bruce Willis, Nick Nolte and was withdrawn from theatrical release after some negative criticism. 


India Unbound - Gurcharan Das

Guracharan Das traces India's rise from poverty to prosperity after 1947 and then 1991. He blames Nehru fro all the problems India had with his narrow, socialist thinking and wonders if we would ahve had a different outcome if the Japanese had run India (what about India running India). There's some references to Clive and the British and how they actually did not contribute to India's fall from prosperity as much as Nehru and successive Congress governments. 


He says that Nehru failed to end poverty, ignorance a


nd disease and inequality of opportunity. Nehru's errors also included the fact that there was no opportunity to rapid export expansion. He says the system suppressed growth and that Nehru's mixed economy theory was greatly flawed. We would have benefited from a capitalistic approach. He mentions two idealistic people he knew, Satpal and his wife, and how their socialist dreams were pipe dreams. If Patel had been PM, things would have been different. Thankfully Shastri came and started the Green revolution.

In the issue of  caste Das, who went to Harvard and then joined an MNC selling Vicks in India (was instrumental in making us aware that we catch cold when we get wet in the rain) and then grew to be a corporate honcho later on, says that for a long time he was not aware of caste. Later on he found that below the top four varnas the Hindu society was casteless (how they can be casteless and still be Hindus I wonder). Anyway he says that all opportunities are now open to all and that even chamars were now going beyond doing chamar work - they are actually weaving. They have caste associations and use caste to enlarge their reach. The President is a Dalit and there are ministers who are dalits too. Then for some reason he quoted Naipaul who says 'when the oppressed have the power to assert themselves, they will behave badly.' Das says that the old stereotype of village occupational rigidity was never entirely accurate. The lower castes have always shown the capability by moving up or changing occupation. And of course, modern organisations hire people on merit.

Then he quickly talks about reforms and Ambani and the rise of the middle class and how knowledge is wealth (and of course how everyone has access to it now).

Somewhere I got bored to death. And skipped the rest of the book.          

Koh-i-Noor - William Dalrymple and Anita Anand

 The authors try to trace the history of the famous Koh-i-Noor which is the 89th biggest diamond in the world apparently. The book starts with the Koh-i-Noor being taken from the young ten year old Duleep Singh, son of Maharaja Ranjit Singh handing over the kingdom and the K to the British who promptly send it off to the Queen. Th Sikhs are defeated in the Battle of Chillianwala with the British after the death of the King and that's that. K has always remained with the British since, exhibited with the Peacock Throne of Shahjehan. Other famous diamonds that are compared with the K are Darya i Noor (Teheran), the Great Mughal diamond (Russia).



Historically Golconda mines were the only source of diamonds in the world from the Kollur mines on the banks of River Godavari until the Brazil Mines were discovered in 1725. The Golconda diamonds were extracted from river beds as natural crystals. The diamonds were described as heavenly bodies where Gods dwelled in them and bought prosperity and many wives as well Diamonds are mentioned in the Garuda Purana. Some Hindus believe it is the mystical Syamantaka mani. Anyway there is no right connection - perhaps the Ghoree dynasty acquired it, then the Tughluqs, the Syeds, the Lodhis and then the Mughals until Muhammad Shah Rangila (who definitely had the K with him). 

Anyway, they say that Babur got a gift of a diamond which everyone thinks is perhaps the K, but was known as Babur's diamond. His son Humayun almost lost it, and used it to trade off his protection with Persian King Shah from where it somehow made its way to India and the Sultan of Ahmad Nagar Nizam Shah. There's no proof of the diamond being the K though the Mughal treasuries were full of expensive stuff (12 treasuries - 9 for cash, 3 for stones and jewels). Perhaps the first known fact is that a trader Mir Jumla presented a diamond (possibly the K) to Shah Jehan which was is embedded in the peacock throne. 

While Muhammad Shah, a peace loving patron of arts was ruling Delhi, Persian warlord Nader Shah seized the Persian throne in 1932 and then invaded Delhi (1739) and defeated a disorganised Mughal army. In teh aftermath, thanks to a rumour that Nader Shah was poisoned and killed the residents of Delhi apparently rebelled and killed some 3000 Persoan soldiers which drew Nader Shah's wrath. the next morning he began a systematic killing of citizens in Delhi and killed 30000. He did not stop until the Nizam of Deccan begged on his knees to stop and promised  a purse of 100 crore. Shah looted Delhi in the two months he was there, he took away the K  which was studded in the Peacock Throne (which cost thrice as much as the Taj Mahal to make) from Muhammad Shah along with a lot of Shah's wealth (and the Nizam Ul Mull's wealth). They say that Nader Shah found out that the K was taken out of the peacock throne and was in Muhammad Shah's turban and he made a gesture of exchanging turbans and thus got his hand son the K. The loot was taken away on 700 elephants, 4000 camels and 12000 horses. 

Nader Shah seems to have handed the K and the Timur Ruby to his chief Afghan body guard Ahmad Khan who seemed to have kept it in his possession for a hundred years (1713-1813). In between the Durrani's (Ahmad Shah Durrani) from Afghanistan raided Delhi and plundered it in 3 raids each more brutal than Nader Shah's raid, defeated the Marathas in Panipat and returned to Afghanistan. Shah's son Timur Shah took over after the death of his father and it was then that the British annexed the Shah Zaman empire. Ranjit Singh was then a feudal who was gaining ground with the British. 

Ranjit Singh the had his eyes on the K which was with the descendant of the Afghans Shuja Ul Mulk, who sought protection from Ranjit Singh. In exchange Ranjit Singh got the K which he kept with him on  his arm until 1939 when the British took it away from Duleep Singh. The K was with the Sikhs for 36 years. 

The K was taken under great security to Bombay  for transportation to England -  the ship had an outbreak of plague, then it encountered a severe storm and finally made it to the Queen who was rather lukewarm in her reception. Her husband Albert however ensured that the K was given prominence in the Great Exhibition and then, since it did not draw as much attention, got diamond cutters from Netherlands to work on it - they reduced its size by quite a bit in their efforts to make it more luminescent. 

Ranjit Singh had 17 wives (many of them committed Sati when he died). Though Ranjit Singh willed that the K be given to the Jagannath temple of Puri after his death, his wish was not followed and it remained with the Sikhs. His descendants (3 Maharajas and 2 crown princes and one dowager queen) died unnatural deaths until the 10 year old Duleep Singh was put on the throne, separated from his mother Jindan who was a wily and able ruler and send her off to a prison in the North.  

Duleep was placed in the care of an English couple, the Logins, who brought him up well. Duleep cut his hair, became anglicised, converted into Christianity, became a good friend of Queen Victoria and became as British as any. He met his mother Jindan who escaped from prison and was then incarcerated in Nepal. Jindan got to England and lived with her son until she died. Duleep became and alcoholic, married some random woman, troubled the British for money and his inheritance until he died. Queen Victoria died. Duleep died.

The K remains in the Tower of England along with the Peacock Throne. India, Pakistan, Afghanistan and others claim their ownership of the K which they say is unlucky for men and not so unlucky for women.    

Saturday, February 15, 2025

Sights on my Morning Walk - Char Kaman, Khurshid Jah Devdi etc

Sunnie and I took off for an early morning paaya trip to Charminar (1591). Taher had suggested a hotel called Miskeen Hotel which was populated by only two people - so i am not sure if I should take Taher seriously on this recommendations (the paaya was not so great and I think was overpriced).

Charminar before dawn (pic courtesy Sunnie)

Hotel Miskeen

Anyway, first things first, we parked in the parking lot near Laad bazaar (the bazaar where one pampers) and walked all the way down to Shadab opposite which sat Miskeen.

Madina Hotel to the right - some inscription here 

The North kaman (Pic Sunnie)

Magnificent gate

Anyway Paaya done we walked back, past Madina Hotel, the bazaar with the stone buildings (apparently built during the reign of the 7th Nizam) which is called Pathergatti I think. The fountain on the middle of the road from which one can see the char kaman (which is called Gulzar Houz which I never knew). 

Pathergatti bazaar

The eastern kaman from Gulzar Houz

Eastern kaman

Sunrise behind Gulzar Sweets

From there we took a left turn and walked towards Purani Haveli where the HEH Nizam;s museum is. Sunnie wanted to see that place and we walked past the impressive kaman into the blood red sunrise, rising behind Gulzar Sweets. As we turned left at what is Mir Chowk (got the name thanks to the police station) we saw that the Hyderabad Metro work had begun on that  road and many houses and shops were begun to be demolished.

HEH Nizam's Museum and Purana Haveli


Down the road until we came to the Esin Girls School, turned right and saw the Durrushewar Hospital and then the lane that led to the Nizam's Museum or the Purani Haveli as it is called. The gate was open and there was a restraining tape put in just after the gate so we stood there and took a couple of pics when two security men arrived from either side. 'This is private property,' said one. 'Andar nahi aaa sakte.' 'Photo nahi le sakte,' said the other. I nodded and we stepped back out letting them enjoy an easy victory.



We walked back that road and in an inspired decision took a rickshaw to the Khurshid Jah devdi which has been on my mind for a while. Now we use to play league matches here in the ground before the devdi and in this ground no outside team would win a game. The ground was intact and a few cricketers were already at the job but the devdi was undergoing reconstruction. It has those massive Roman type columns as I remember and a lot of steps. 

Khurshid Jah devdi


Iqbal Ud Dowla devdi


We walked back and went to the nearby Iqbal-ud-Dowlah devdi which is another massive structure with a huge frontage and a lot of construction inside - there were people living inside so we decided not to go in.


Mosque at Mahbub Chowk

The clock tower at Mahbub Chowk (Pic Sunnie)

The walk back was past the Mahbub Chowk which was also being reconstructed, the beautiful mosque there and the clock tower. From there we hopped on to our car and headed back home - a good two hours later.

Very satisfying.     

Sights on a Morning Walk - Abids

 Sunnie and I met early at 530 am and headed off to Abids. We parked near my old IDBI office and walked towards Nizam College passing a model government school on the way - with a large ground.

Aliya High School for Boys (1892)

Once an elite college - Madrassa-e-Aliya 

 Then past Nizam College and then peeped into Aliya school/college which had a huge history but which I never deigned to look into all these years. Apparently it was run by Anglo Indians and  was one of the top schools in the early years - famous alumni include the 7th Nizam, Prince Mukarram Jah, cricketer Asif Iqbal, novelist Raja Rao among others! Right next to it, nestling between Aliya and Mahbubia School is a small gully that had a board -Department of Culture or something to that effect.


Mahbubia Girls School and College

I showed Sunny the path we (Ram and I) used to take as kids to go to school. Then past the wedding cars lined up and Blue Sea restaurant which was once the famous Bombay Restaurant where we ate many tandoor roti-mutton ordered by our adventurous Abdul Rub in his inimitable fashion every Sunday league match. 

State Bank of Hyderabad established by the 7th Nizam at Hyderabad State Bank in 1941
 

St Joseph's Cathedral (1820) Roman Catholic church

All Saints High School (1855) in the back ground



Past SBI which was then SBH and had a canteen where we would eat breakfast (Chakkar and I) for ridiculously low prices like 25 paise or something. I always felt like an impostor there because we were not employees but Chakkar seemed to know the ropes.

Rosary Convent  High School (1904) Roman Catholic


Then we turned into the gully that led to All Saints and I showed him the place where the famous Green Stores  once stood, selling stationary and stuff to school kids. Was there a pretty girl behind the counter? I don't know but we romanticised everything. Then we turned into the school side and found that the access to the school had been cut off thanks to some new platform raised on that open ground where all cars would drop off kids (including us). 

St George's Church (1844) Christ Church originally

ISKCON, Abids

We walked up the steps to the church which I found out was  called St Joseph's cathedral, imposing as ever. I showed Sunnie the little tunnel which was still open but with a steel door to secure its proper use. We snuck past the door to All Saints which was bolted from the other side. Now the entrance to All Saints is completely separate - the church and the school seem to have fortten to forgive and forget.

Jamatkhana,  Chirag Ali Lane

MCI Centenary Methodist Church, Chapel Road (1950s), Protestant


From there (I always wanted to know what and where this Gun Foundry is but that I will save for the next time) we walked down and checked out George Grammar School's church which was an impressive one. Again from the outside because the gates were locked. Past Taj which made Sunnie reconsider his breakfast plan but again reconsidered it - GPO, through Chirag Ali lane where the impressive Jamatkhana stands, a peek at the Methodist Church on Chapel Road where Timothy got married decades ago and back to the car.

Breakfast at the Udipi in SR Nagar and off we were. Was a nice long walk.