Hyderabad by Walk - Chudi Bazar - Jumeraat Bazar

Tanya announced a walk in the Chudi Bazar - Jumeraat Bazar area and I signed up since its one part of the city I have not really explored. I started early because the walk was at 7 am which is a good time to walk, found a place to park and waited a few minutes before Tanya and a quorum showed up. Tanya explained by way of a map (she always has maps and pictures to show on her ipad to give us an idea of what to expect - and she hands over her trademark picture postcards with the maps and other details in the back to each participant) how we were at standing the top of a triangle and that we would walk along the two arms - Chudi Bazaar and Jumeraat Bazar. Now Chudi Bazar probably means bangle bazar and I know Jumeraat bazar is an old second hand household goods market - the physical Amazon of the olden days that operates on Thursdays. Being Sunday, the street was empty so we could walk easily. 

Rani Avantibai chowk

Chudi bazaar to the left-Jumeraat bazaar to the right

We started by walking on the Chudi Bazar road after passing the imposing Rani Avantibai statue on a horse back - I originally mistook her for Rani Lakshmibai of Jhansi but when I looked at the map closely I found that it mentioned it as Rani Avantibai Chowk. The queen-regent of Ramgarh (currently Dindori) in Madhya Pradesh had a role to play akin to Rani Lakshmi Bai of Jhansi in the 1857 uprising and died at the age of 26, choosing to kill herself in a battle against the British that she was losing. Famous of her act of bringing together small kingdoms together to fight the British by sending them bangles and urging them to fight against the British she managed to defeat the British in the first war. She is revered by the Lodhi community. There is a postal stamp issued in her name.

Sri Khemdas ji's samadhi

Cherub painted on the samadhi

Tanya led us into a small gate to the left that opened into a mutt - the Khemdas Mutt. I would never have imagined that so much land existed within that gate. The temple arches were being constructed anew but once we were inside the main area it was quite amazing too see what lay within these walls - a 200 year old mutt, a wooden dalan, a beautiful samadhi of Sri Khemdas, several shrines for various gods all amidst greenery and a peaceful environment one would not associate with this area of town. 

Samadhi

The wooden dalan

Portrait of Sri Khemdas ji

Towards the right side was a new structure made entirely of marble with idols of the saints. The pandits were very amicable, allowed us to take pictures, offered prasad and tea, explained the mutt's history, even showed documents and maps. The head priest really knew his history (he said he had studied history). Behind the structures was an old baoli which Tanya offered to help restore if the management was ready. One can spend a lot of time within these walls - it's very peaceful. 

Hanuman temple

Choose your vehicle

On the road outside, two barbers sat on the road. From there we went to another small temple, Ram temple. Again, there was an old world quiet and devotion in this temple as people sat and quietly prayed or meditated or chanted. We walked to the back of the temple where we saw a old tree and some shrines. 

Ram Candra temple

From there we walked to the Sanatana Dharma Sabha Building which was an impressive building built on a large area. It appears to be used for functions and such. Poor upkeep but very impressive. The area is full of akharas and vyayamshalas now I know why they always refer to the pahelwans of Begumpet Bazar. 

Kishan Das Mutt

Sanatan Dharam Sabha building

We crossed over to the Jumeraat Bazar and walked into the Nadi Nath Ganesh temple. It was a beautiful temple that led into a street leading us to the Musi. On the banks of the Musi was an interesting structure, a Nadi Hanuman temple which apparently gets submerged in the rains. The gentleman praying there told me that one should examine the stone within the temple to get an idea of how old it is. He mistook me for a Professor. On the way back some ladies asked me if I was part of a film shoot.

Jagannathdwara Mutt

There was an Arundhathi Seva Mandal with Ambedkar's photo, quite a big building. I also noticed other stones and banners referring to Mediga Bandhu Mitra Sangam. Interestingly in this small, compact area with so many temples and mutts one could see all sections of society coexist.

 

Nadi Hanuman temple by the river Musi

On the way back we saw an old police station, now in disuse, but Tanya pointed out the architecture of that era that was evident. A few steps more and we reached the place where I had parked the car.

Small temple in the river

Rani Avantibai

Quite a fascinating walk. I would have never imagined that so many temples were in that vicinity. Thanks Tanya.