Hyderabad by Walk - Qilich Khan Walk

Deccan Archives announced it's Saturday walk - Qilich Khan - the grandfather of the first Nizam and a Mughal nobleman. Qilich Khan translates to 'Horse Man' said Wahaj who led the walk with his usual panache and elegance. Originally Khaja Abid, he was born in Aliabad near Samarkhand, and joined the Mughal army as it marched on to the Deccan.

I had read of Qilich Khan earlier but since the tomb was in a remote place, never went. So when the walk was announced i recruited Ramaraju for the walk - I realise it's a good way to catch up with old friends on the drive, the walk, maybe a chai and breakfast after. That's if they like these kind of outings that is. It took us close to an hour to reach the place near Kismetpur, right next to the ORR, not far from the Himayat Sagar bund that you can see if you walk on to the road. There was a small group of 6-7 and we were joined by Serish Nanisetty who is another expert on the history of Hyderabad, having written the wonderful Golconda/Bagnagar book.

Wahaj gave us a bit of history of Qilich Khan who was part of Aurangzeb's army that conquered Bijapur and then joined the forces as they tried to conquer Golconda. There were drought like conditions and it was a long 9 month siege before the Mughals conquered Golconda. In the war however, a cannon ball hits Qilich Khan blowing his right arm off a few miles away. Qilich Khan as the legend goes does not discount despite his severe wounds and rides back to camp to get treated. While getting treated he sips his coffee and expresses his confidence that he will join the fight in a few days. Unfortunately he dies three days after. This was the 1687 battle which the Mughals won.

He is buried in Kismetpur. His right arm is found and recognised as his thanks to the signet ring and it is buried separately. The accounts are confusing but there seems to be one tomb here at Kismetpur and the other at Attapur.

The tomb in in a huge area which is rectangular in shape and thankfully walled because there is immense pressure of buildings all around it. Nets for volleyball, badminton, some goal posts, kids playing cricket make it an ideal space for games. In its prime Wahaj says it was designed in the Char Bagh design. In the centre is a building which was the royal gawakhana or quawah khana, a place for the royals to sip coffee (before the British brought in tea). 

The tomb itself is a simple, open to sky structure, in line with the austere ways of Aurangzeb. Chadars are placed on it as is a turban. It's a dargah so people come and sit and pray. A few tombs around it belong to family members or those close to him. Behind the main tomb area there are a few more tombs. 

The minarets carry the pineapple and corn motifs - these two were brought to India by the Portuguese. To one corner is a Qutb Shahi mosque with all the makings of classic Qutb Shahi architecture. Wahaj pointed out that since the artisans were not Persian some local elements would creep into the architecture like a mandapa or so.

Qilich Khan's son Feroz Jung married the daughter of the Prime Minister of Shah Jehan and it's their eldest son Mir Qamaruddin Khan who became the first Nizam. Qilich Khan's tomb prominently mentions the name Shaik Shahabuddin Suhrawadi and it says that his geneology reached the Sufi saint. 

We walked from this area on the road across the bridge over river Esi which is now a mere trickle. One can see the Himayat Sagar bund from the road. The two rivers Musi and Esi (named after Musa and Esa - feminine versions being Musi and Esi) - merge at the sangam near Bapu ghat, Langar Houz. Musi originates at Anantagiri while Esi originates at Pargi. Unlike Musi, Esi flows through lesser populated areas and thus is less prone to mischief. Wahaj explained how the Himayat Sagar is an earthen dam unlike Osman Sagar which is built between two hillocks. He also threw some light on how the water system allowed the water to flow from one to another depending on need. I am always amazed at the amount of knowledge and information Sibgat and Wahaj have over the history, geography, architecture, culture, governance of Hyderabad and how succintly they explain. 

We walked on to the Osmanian mosque built around the 1930s, some old houses of that era built there, walked back to see the Esi close up and then back to the tomb area. Had a nice time chatting with Serish about his book and movie theatres and so on. I also bought a book brought out by the Deccan Archives on the Musi. A group pic and me and Ram headed back homeward bound. 

Morning we'll spent.