Friday, September 20, 2024

The Tirunelveli Diaries - Rameshwaram and Dhanushkodi

This was when we were still in Tuticorin. I checked out the distance between Tuticorin and Rameshwaram - I doubt if I will ever be so close - so I decided to go for it whether anyone came along or not. Rameshwaram is one of the four holy dhams for Hindus - Puri, Dwarka and Badrinath being the others I think. The distance was some 180 kms and it was to take about four hours. Since our match finished in three days, we had a full day to ourselves. Jyo, Chattu, Santosh, Krishna, Sajid and Subhash wanted to join so off we went in an Innova, slightly cramped but full of high spirits. Time of dep - 730 am.

Chai stop - Jyo, Chattu and Krishna

Pamban bridge - uplifting

The road was not the best for most part which we were warned about - single road mostly. There were many windmills, one of the features of the deep South, lot of wind, almost howling mostly. Then there were these women who would have these huge barrows in which they carried water in plastic buckets - water was a problem here so close to APJ Kalam's hometown. We stopped for a chai at a nice joint and off we went onwards. There was some Muslim festival going on - lots of people coming by in all kinds of vehicles.

Cute house - Rameshwaram
The Ramanathaswamy temple on Rameswaram island (its a Shiva temple) is one of the 12 jyotirlingas. Story is that  the lingam was established and worshiped by Lord Rama before he crossed the Ram setu. It is one of the four dhams of the Char dham pilgrimage that crisscross India - Dwarka in the west, Barinath in the North and Puri to the East). The original temple was expanded by the Pandyas in the 12th century and it has the longest corridor among all the Hindu temples. There are 64 teerthas, 24 of which are important (a dip in all cleanses your sins), 12 of them in the temple itself.

Entry into the temple



The Pamban bridge was the first of sights that invigorated us - people stopped by and took pics whc they are not supposed to as the bridge had sea on both sides and connected the mainland to Rameshwaram. Beautiful sight! 

The famous corridors

The temple

Our major concern was getting to the temple before 12 because it was to be shut till 4 pm after that. We somehow made it by 1140 and rushed in. The first thing about Rameshwaram is the huge, painted corridor that we walk into, shops on either side. There was no prohibition of photos so I clicked away. We bought ourselves a 200 buck speed darshan (there's a 100 buck one as well) and that pretty much speeded up our darshan. Though it is called Rameshwaram, the deity is of Shiva and it is believed Lord Rama prayed to Shiva here or something to that effect. Darshan done - there are other rituals like dipping oneself in 21 teerthas - which we did not do. We stepped out of the marvelous structure with its longest corridor and beautifully painted ceilings and walked into the hot, hot sun and could barely walk on the road. 

Near Dhanushkodi - sea on both sides 

A railway station of the ghost town

A sip of coconut water and we hopped into our Innova and headed to Dhanushkodi which is a tapering piece of land from where Lord Rama and his army of vanaras were supposed to have built the Ram setu. Sri Lanka they say is a mere 40 kms from the end of that land. People cannot stay back in Dhanushkodi and must return by 5 pm.

Traffic jam at end of land


Fish meal at hut

There was once a village they say ad a proper civilisation with a railway station, houses and such which was destroyed in a cyclone. All that remains now is the ghost town of Dhanushkodi. Our driver took us into the strip of land packed with cars and minivans and such, causing a huge traffic jam. We got off some distance away - sea on both sides, gusty winds that blew our caps away. I walked by the sea and wet my feet, walked right to the tip where there is a circular path. People just sat there watching the ocean - pineapple and mango strips there to eat along with coconut water. My phone got stuck so I could not take pics. Also realised that we were out of India's network and our Airtel network was showing international roaming.

Our dhaba - many such here

View from lighthouse of land end

Ghost town view


We soon made our way back to the Innova, found ourselves a hut which the driver suggested was best for local fish curry and rice and we sat down for a nice meal. After that we headed out - Krishna, Santosh and me climbed atop the lighthouse from where we got brilliant views of the Land's End and the ghost town and then climbed down. 

Rama temple 

Pamban bridge

Not enough time to check out the Kalam Memorial so we skipped it and went (we passed by a sign that said, way to Kalam's house) and a huge tank. We stopped for a moment on the Pamban bridge and then off we headed back to Tuticorin.

Love these - cricket in open grounds

More cricket

Homeward bound!

One stop for chai and snack and we were back at the Hotel by 8 pm. Day well spent.             

Thursday, September 19, 2024

Thalavan - Movie

 Malayalam so had to watch. A convoluted tale of two cops who are being framed by one character who suddenly springs out in the end. Kept me going till the end though the end was a disappointment.



   

Padosan - Movie

 A found out that there was a re-release of 'Padosan' in theatres and we signed up. Nivedita joined us for the 1030 show. It was a 3 hour film. At 1030 there were just the four of us in the theatre. A couple joined in later. 

As always, Padosan was super fun. I was dog tired and I thought I'd crash out but that's the thing with good movies - they keep you engaged. 

Loved it. The whacky sense of humour, the music, the weird characters.

 


Monday, September 16, 2024

Shodh - Taslima Nasreen

 Shodh is beautifully written by Taslima Nasreen. Somehow it evoked in me memories of the 70s culture, of universities with forward thinking young men and women, with hopes and dreams, with progressive ideas, with freedom and liberation, with experimentation and exploration. Jhurmur, the protagonist is a live wire at the University in Dhaka, with a forward outlook to life and perhaps a dream of fulfilling her potential.

She meets Haroon and is wooed by him and eventually marries him - only to find that he suddenly changes into a conservative husband who does not want her to work, to go out, to serve his parents and his family, to not laugh loudly. The old romantic Haroon completely goes missing as he suspects her of carrying someone else's child and gets it aborted, believes she tricked him into marrying her and so on.



Jhurmur puts up with all the humiliation, suppression until she finally decides to break free in the end and get herself a job as a teacher, and her agency. She reclaims her life and when she does that, I, as the reader, felt a huge surge of relief, of exhilaration, of freedom that comes only with clarity.

I'll live my life like this because I am important. No one else is more important than I am to myself.

I cannot write or explain it well nor will I try to - but the story is so well told of how this high spirited girl with so much potential falls for a possessive man who woos her under the guise of being a liberal minded man but unmasks his true self - and how she slowly finds herself losing herself until she decides to reclaim herself. Perfectly paced, beautifully narrated.

Loved it.   

The Tirunelveli Diaries - Sankar Nagar

 The bus drive from Tuticorin to Tirunelveli was about an hour. We landed up in Sankar Nagar on the outskirts of Tirunelveli, on the road to Madurai and onward to Chennai. Sankar Nagar was also where India Cements has its factory and a lovely township for its workers. Adjoining the wall was a very well maintained cricket ground owned by India Cements which is the venue for the very popular TNPL matches every year.


I was struck by how well the ground, the nets, the township was maintained. Not a blade of grass more, no paint jobs needed, no rusting equipment, no lazing employees - everything was in place and everyone was busy at work. At the helm of affairs as far as the ground was concerned was Kothanda Raman the curator who had a fine knowledge of the game, a keen eye, a professional work ethic - no wonder he is great friends with MSD. I bumped into my old pal Chinna or Vaasan as I know him or like his name onte card says S. Sreenivason. We had made this trip to Guwahati with the South Zone U22 team and we won the limited over trophy!





Jyothi Shetty and I were assigned a nice air conditioned cabin which served as the commntators box in TNPL games. We walked around the campus which looked like a miniature BHEL campus - officers bungalows, workers homes, well kept roads, lots of greenery and peacocks all around. 



We found that under the open steps on the pavilion were rooms that served as class rooms for primary school children.

The ground at Sankar Nagar was home for three matches and I loved every moment of it.

Why We Kneel, Why We Rise - Michael Holding

 The murder by white policemen of George Floyd and the outrage the sparked the BlackLivesMatter movement gave former West India fast bowler Michael Holding an opportunity to express his view on Sky Sports on racism. One thing led to another and he ended up writing this book about racism with inputs from sportspeople - Usain Bolt, Naomi Osaka, Thierry Henry among others. He does a fine job of researching history and presents a compelling and comprehensive narrative of how being treated as the 'other' had its effects on black people, on privilege and how it feels to be treated differently because of the colour of your skin.



For example Usain Bolt says he walked into a watch store in UK and the salesperson says something that indicates that the watches may be out of his range. Bolt buys it without asking for its price just to prove that he can afford it. But it stings.

In delving into history Holding says Christ was certainly not white as they make him out to be because he was born in the Middle East. He speaks about Septimus Severus who was a Black Emperor who ruled Rome and how advanced Ghana was in terms of science and trade etc. He laughs at Columbus's claims of discovering a land that was already inhabited and how he claimed it for the Spanish! Claimed it! He traces the beginnings of the slave trade in 1562 when Admiral John Hawkins led the first slave trading voyage to the West Indies - the Dutch, South Africans and finally the British took control. He notes how 132 slaves were thrown overboard ship Zong, the Haitian revolution which had 140 years of massacres of indigenous population by Aussies (and laughably Haiti was asked to pay reparations to France for its freedom). Similarly when the British slave trade was abolished in 1807 reparations were paid to the traders which constituted of 40% of the British income. He writes of the assimilation of native children by Australians, race riots in Britain and Amritsar, 36 murdered in the Tulsa massacre, black sharecroppers being used in medical experiments, the Bengal famine where 40 lakh died, 2 crore died in the Indian partition, 69 backs murdered in Sharpeville, murders of Mlcolm X, Martin Luther King, how Nixon's war on drugs was aimed at the blacks, Kissinger's report that tried to slow down black population, the Windrush scandal, Stephen Lawrence, Breonna Taylor, Ahmand Arbery, Michael Brown.

He talks of how black people founded Los Angeles (52 early settlers), were instrumental in discovery of inoculation, fire extinguishers, door knobs, elevators, jazz, carbon filaments, stethoscope, Of heroes like Rosa Parks, Tommie Smith (black glove at Mexico Olympics), Stephen Biko and his Columbus song, Colin Kaepernick, Mandela, Obama...

Michael Holding makes a powerful case of how they were made to kneel - all that was dehumanising, slavery, lynchings, fear and how they rise through their excellence in sports, music, culture, dance, science, business. A case for relooking at history anew. It surely opened my eyes to many new things.     


Saturday, September 14, 2024

The Tirunelveli Diaries - Tuticorin

 When I was first told we had our matches in Tirunelveli I wondered how one gets there. Apart from the halwa I had no idea about where it was etc. But when I looked at it on the map I realised it had its advantages- it was close to Kanya Kumari - a place which i had promised both my Mom and my Mother-in-law i'd take but didn't, and also Rameshwaram.

Tuticorin airport - ship model

To get to Tirunelveli we were booked on a flight to Tuticorin (every security guy at the airport asked - which state is this place in). Tuticorin is now called Thoothukodi and is a busy hub of fishing and peals and salt and exports thanks to a port that it has. It has a long history with French and Portuguese and perhaps English occupation and is a quaint little town. Its called the Pearl city because of real pearl fishing (unlike Hyderabad which was mainly a pearl trading place). Being a port city (VO Chidambaram port) it also developed into an industrial city being of considerable importance on the Coromandel coast. A medical college, a fisheries college, an extension of the Anna University, a thermal power station.

Salt pans - salt on the right

Jyo and I went on the tour and we started on day that had heavy rains and we were not sure if we could make it to the airport in time. A flight to Bangalore, a few hours layover which we spent munching on egg sandwiches and then off to Tuticorin. It was a really small airport and we got out, collected our bags, hired a cab and headed off on a 45 minute drive to Tuticorin town where the team was staying at SRM Hotel.

Lovely huge church

Chapel

It was a nice little hotel, pretty close to the sea (we could see it from the windows), good food. Jyo and I got out of the hotel and strolled about it (he is maniacal about his 10000 steps a day). We passed a bank street with all the major banks which was to be expected considering it was a port town, saw some lovely old churches, old buildings, found a beach (Muthu Nagar beach) and a lovely juice bar. The place is famous for its parotta and curries, macaroons.   

Beach - really nice (and small)

Siron Juice bar - lovely juices (date milk shake)

Postal Business Bank

Headed back to the room after a quick detour to the TASMAC shops which are classic places to be in. 

SRM Hotel

Fishing boat and some coracles - motifs of Tuticorin

Interestingly there are 24 islands between Tuticorin and Rameswaram which is the first marine biosphere reserve in India with 36000 species of flora and fauna!

A nice evening with Chatterjee and Jyo, some dinner and we settled down to a good match - against an Ishan Sharma led Jharkhand at Tirunelveli (another 45 minutes away).