The Diaries of Franz Kafka - Franz Kafka

 Franz Kafka (1883-1924), one of the literary geniuses of the twentieth century who fused realism and fantasy, wrote these diaries during 1910-1923 in a bid to prod his creativity. He wrote his diaries until 1923, a year before he died of tuberculosis. Interestingly his career choices include being a novelist and a short story writer and also an insurance man (he was trained to be a lawyer).

The diaries are deeply personal and flit about here and there as he ponders over his failed relationships, people in his life, ideas for books, details of some part of his daily life, his frustrations with his father for having to work in a factory when he wanted to write, he reflections on his imperfections, the angle of reproach. He was a depressed man, isolated from family and friends and of generally poor health. He frequently doubted himself, his writing and very little of his work actually got published in his lifetime.

Engaged several times he never married. His writing is also (including his diaries) seen as funny by some (perhaps because he was very honest) and one friend is quoted as saying that when he read his stuff Kafka would frequently burst out laughing and stop reading.

The diaries were edited and published by his friend Max Brod after his death. 

I picked up this book from Indialog, which at that time had a wonderful collection of classics, well produced and I remember thinking I should improve my literary reading and picked up many - O Henry, Maupassant, Wilde, Austen. Think this one is the last of that series. Thanks Indialog, thanks Keerti. 

Thought for the Day - Looking Hard is Being Open

 When we seek something - we look very hard. When we look very hard we maintain very narrow focus and miss out on things. our mind is fast eliminating things and we miss out on some essential cues which may lead us to where the object we want is - most times in front of our eyes.

I feel that perhaps being open is more useful than going at it very hard. It presents more perspectives, broadens the focus, helps us change perspective easily - and mostly opens our eyes to the world around us.

One is hard. One is easy.

The Tao of Physics - Fritjof Capra

Fritjof Capra's book sold over one million copies since it first got published in 1975. It is an exploration of connections between Eastern mysticism and modern physics coming from the insight that Eastern traditions have a coherent philosophical framework and also that there are philosophical implications of modern science. Fritjof draws from the writings of ancient texts of Hinduism, Taoism, Buddhism, Zen as well as from the writings of Oppenheimer, Bohr, Heisenberg, Einstein to establish a space where it all seems to merge - the comparison between exact science and spiritual disciplines based on meditation where insights cannot be verbally communicated!

He goes back to the roots of Physics in the first period of Greek philosophy in 6th century BC where science, philosophy and religion were not separate. The themes were of perpetual change, of becoming, of opposites as unity.

In Eastern philosophy the ultimate reality can never be an object of reasoning or of demonstrable knowledge. The Tao that can be expressed is not the Eternal Tao says Taoism. Thus absolute knowledge is an experience in a non-ordinary state of consciousness which may be called a meditative or mystical state.

While physics consists of mathematical models that consist of three stage - gathering experimental evidence, corelating experimental facts with mathematical symbols and using them to predict results, the Eastern methods seems to go into direct experience through the science of the mind - through meditation, physical movement, art and other forms which lead to similar insights. Experience of oneness with the surrounding environment is the main characteristic of this meditative state. It is a state of extreme alertness - the mind of someone facing death. Both need years of training, both need to repeat experiments and produce demonstrable results.

While the student of Zen is told to 'discover his original face', the sudden discovery of his original face is what they call enlightenment. Interestingly they also say that a spiritual insight and the understanding of a joke are a moment of enlightenment - which is why enlightened souls have a great sense of humour they say. 'If it were not laughed at, it would not be sufficient to be Tao' - Taoism.

Fritjof explains that while Newton's classical physics based on the laws of motion made everything easier to understand in a mechanical way where objects were made of a large number of atoms and velocities were small compared to the speed of light, it began showing its limitations when quantum theory challenged the first limitation and relativity challenged the second. It moved into an area which is more experiential than something that could be articulated. Atomic physics provided scientists with the first glimpse of essential nature of things - a non-sensory experience of reality and paradoxical aspects of this experience.

The language problem in these areas was dealt with differently by different Eastern traditions - Hinduism used myth, metaphor, symbols which were less restricted by logic and common sense, the Chinese used factual language to expose the limitations of language through use of paradoxes, Zen Buddhists used koans which were nonsensical riddles and Haikus with 17 syllables - all exposing the limitation of language and linear thought. According to Eastern mystics the direct mystical experience of reality is a momentous event which shakes the very foundation of one's world view.

Fritjof looks at each of the Eastern traditions. Hinduism in its essence teaches that to be free of the spell of maya, to break the bonds of karma, means to realise that all the phenomena we perceive with our senses are part of the same reality. All Gods are manifestations of Brahman. Buddhism has its central theme of unity and interrelation of all things and events. Chinese thought, Confucianism speaks of the yin and yang, of dynamic change, Taoism that by displaying the feminine, yielding qualities of human nature it is easiest to lead a perfectly balanced life. In Zen people practice Zazen, tea ceremonies and find that state through each act.

The author explores themes such as the Unity of things, going beyond the world of opposites, space and time, emptiness and form, the cosmic dance etc. Overall he says that the Eastern world view of awareness of the unity and material interrelation of all things and events holds for physics as well.

Capra has also given 6 suggestions for a new paradigm in science:

1) consider the part and the whole as more symmetrically conditioning one another
2) replace thinking in terms of structure with thinking in terms of process
3) replace objective science  with epistemic science where the approach  to decide what counts as knowledge adapts to the subject studied
4) replace the idea of knowledge as buildings based on foundations with an idea of knowledge as networks
5) abandon the quest for  truth with quest for better approximations
6) abandon the ideas of domination of nature with one of cooperation and non-violence

I tried to piece together what I could understand and it makes sense. Definitely need another, deeper reading to get more insights but this was good as it was and provides a fine answer to those who treat science and the world of the mystics as separate. If there's one thing we learn from this book it's that anything definite is not definite! To look on, to wonder, to form opinions and principles, to be open is what our life is about. Thanks old pal for gifting me this book.

   

       

The Jammu Diaries - Random Pics

 Some random pics from Jammu.

Morning mist over Jammu

A Dharamshala in the market

Old building

The tombs of the Dogra Royals

Jammu University

An interesting poster

Statue of Raja Hari Singh in the Raja Hari Singh Park

Bittu Fish Fry

Now this fish fry stall is apparently on YouTube according to Jyo and we could not resist stopping and ordering a serving (Rs. 300). The main man Bittu who is standing there, cuts up the cat fish (called Singhada in these parts) while the other guy fries them. Delicious stuff, huge demand.. Apparently his father started the business 75 years ago. Fish come every morning fresh from the catch in Himachal. Drop by if you like your fish!

Bittu posing with his fish fry cart - lovely  

It's in the Raghunath market area.

The Jammu Diaries - Vaishnodevi Yatra

I am not sure if what we undertook could be called as Vaishnodevi yatra but we did go to the shrine and walked the way down. We had an extra day and I thought we could give it a shot - Katra, the base town from where the trek to Vaishnodevi shribe begins, was 60 kms away from Jammu and from what I read and gathered form people it was a 3-4 hour trek up and equally down - its 13 kms one way. It would be taxing surely but lets see I thought. I sent out word and soon a company of six plus me (all of them much younger and fitter than I) gathered. Two cars were arranged and we set out at 2 pm.

First glimpse of the Trikuta mountains and the Vaishnodevi trek

Now, the precursor. I tried to get tickets for the evening but did not get tickets which led to the plan. The girls from room service told our kids that there was a helicopter service which they would try to get us on to at a price of 2300 per person one way if we made it to Katra. And they said it was worth it etc etc and soon things fell into place. Even the cab guys came at short notice. What I mean to say was - things fell into place.

Another one - from Katra

Anyway, off we went at 2 pm and reached Katra by about 4ish. We went to the place where we get the helicopter booking and bought tickets - now the round trip from Katra to Vaishnodevi is some 4500 bucks. However the copters do not take off after 5 pm. On good days, weather being good, if one takes a morning chopper up and an evening chopper down, one can do both ways. We had the option of only one. 

Off the helipad - pony rides for those who want

Walking - lots of monkeys around

Anyway we bought tickets and rushed to the place where they weighed us, gave us some ids and stuff and packed us into their cars. Then to the helipad where we were checked once again like in an airport and were asked to wait in line. Choppers kept coming in and out and people were quickly helped out and helped in and off they went again. There were six of us if I remember - two next to the pilot and four at the back. We took off minus the seat belt, the copter swung this way and that, looked like it would run into the mountain wall and swerved and some 5-7 minutes later we landed on a small helipad on the mountain side. First time in the chopper for me (and the rest!)

Helipad

Helipad

We got off the chopper and the boys said it was a 30 minute walk and we started walking. Right outside the helipad we find people trying to sell pony rides (can travel on pony) or palki rides (men carry you in a palki). We chose to walk. Maybe it took us about 30-40 minutes and we saw what they call the Bhawan - a huge complex. Later I realised this was where the main shrine is. There is another temple on top of the hill called Bhaironnath mandir and they say the yatra is not complete if you do not visit both (we did not so I rest my case).

Nescafe and burger stop

Destination Bhawan

Anyway we walked in and walked past Durga Bhawan which is where there is some information available. The complex was so confusing that we asked many people and stopped at this lovely Ram temple. We were told that darshan was shut and we had to wait till 8, a good 2 hours away. Then someone found out that we could buy some tickets for 2000 bucks a head and go in for arti and satsang. We walked in and lo behold, we found that we had divine help!

Another view of Bhawan

One lady called us aside and said she had four tickets and three of her family members did not come and she would sell those tickets to us at 1200 bucks. We took the offer, bought four tickets at 2000 bucks and followed. She apparently visits every month from Delhi and knew the place like the back of her hand. She took us right in, to the place where we put our mobiles away, our footwear away, and got us good places to sit and we sat right in front and watched the satsang (she knew every sloka) and watched the arti. The room was filled with devotees clapping, immersed in their faith. Clearly everyone had a deep connection.

Ram Mandir

After arti she quickly guided us to the main shrine for darshan. It is in a cave like place and there are three pindis, stone symbols, each with a distinct color and texture originating from the same source. The guard told us that the middle pindi was Vaishnodevi and the other two were Mahalakshmi and Maha Saraswati. Darshan done we headed out into the cold night at nine pm.

The path at twilight

Bhawan at night on way back

The mountains are called Trikuta mountains. Vaishnodevi is one of he holiest of the Hindu pilgrimages and they say a crore visit every year. They say Arjuna meditated here before the war.

Bhawan - lights 

Vaishnodevi, Goddess Shakti, was a devotee of Lord Vishnu who decided to never get married. One Bhaironnath pursued her and she beheaded him and the place where his head fell is where the Bhaironnath temple is today. Midway up the hills is what is called Ardhkuwari temple.

Palki bearers carrying a pilgrim

We grabbed some dinner and started back. The pathway is wide and well laid out and one can walk at an easy pace (way down, I am sure way up is strenuous). There are pony rides on offer at 400-600 bucks a head, palkis where four men carry you in a basket like thing at a pretty rapid pace, some pram like structures for adults to sit and be taken along, even battery operated cars which operate past 10 in the night and need to be booked.

Photo studio on way down

We walked halfway and our driver started calling. From the Ardhkuwari temple we started taking the steps to gain time. It got to my calves and legs and it was with a quivering gait that I finally managed to reach Ban Ganga which was where we were to meet. Some nice lemon sodas on the helped me along as did a nice conversation with a friend who called quite fortuitously and stayed with me on the later and more difficult part of the walk. Thanks pal.

There were people climbing up at 11 am, young kids who were probably 6-7 years old, families, young couples, old people. Amazingly so many of them were using the steps (I was finding it difficult to walk down). Many used the trekking sticks - I wish I found one. Another feature is that there are many monkeys along the way - but they mind their own business mostly (though they snatched one man's bag - perhaps with food). 

The cab arrived and we headed back. An hour and a half later we were back at the hotel by 1 am. Tired, but very satisfied. Quite an experience.                

The Jammu Diaries - Bahu Fort, Bawe Wali Mata Temple

 From where we were, the Bahu Fort looks an imposing structure across the river and I decided to visit it. The auto guy Rinku took us there and parked right in front of the fort. The Bahu fort is named after king Bahulochan who built the fort.

Bahu Fort

Raja Jambulochan is considered the founder of Jambu or Jammu town, and he is considered to be of the Ikshwaku dynasty. He ascended the throne after his brother Bahulochan who built the fort for Goddess Mahakali who is the patron deity of Jammu. After Jambulochan the Raj, Dhar and Dev dynasties ruled over Jammu. 

A more panaromic view

Somewhere I read that the Parmar Rajputs built this fort but Bahulochan seems to have renovated it. The main thing about the fort is that it is a religious place with a temple of Kali inside called Bawe Wali Mata. It is considered a Shakti temple from the 8th century. We got off the auto and made our way into what looked like a market place that led to the fort and the temple.

Bagh-e-Bahu

The fort is rather small, not as imposing as it looked from far. The main attraction is the temple inside. One has to deposit mobiles and stuff before going in and we did that. Inside the fort there is a complex of temples - the main one being the Kali temple and other smaller shrines around it. 

More Bagh-e-Bahu

There was a langar going on and free food was being distributed. Lots of devotees and many tourists thronged the place. Far as the fort is concerned I am not sure there is much to see apart from the walls but the view from the walls would have been nice. However we were short of time and we made it out.

To the citizens of Jammu

An interesting cluster of temples

On the way back we stopped at the Bagh-e-Bahu, a garden next to the Bahu fort. Quite nice. Some school kids and some random people were walking around the park.

I also saw an interesting cluster of temples outside Bagh-e-Bahu. It seems to be the pattern here to have a cluster of shrines. No wonder its called 'City of Temples'.

The Jammu Diaries - Amar Mahal Palace

 The Amar Mahal Palace was commissioned by Raja Amar Singh in the 19th century and was designed by a French architect to resemble a French chateau. The royal family lived here, Maharaja Hari Singh was born here before they moved out. The queen Tara Devi lived in the palace until 1967. 

Amar Mahal Palace

The Amar Mahal Palace has now been converted into a museum and a cultural arts centre donated by Karan Singh to the Hari-Tara Charitable Trust.

Maraja Hari Singh, Maharani Tara Devi and Dr Karan Singh

Collection of books

The entry to the palace is magnificent with vast drive ways, a large beautifully landscaped orchard, and then well manicured gardens until we see the palace on the left, standing on the top of a hillock looking over the river Tawi. When we visited, the gardens were filled with school children playing, and it was such a lovely sight to see such nice places being opened to children - most times they are restricted from playing.

Royal clothes

Nataraja

The entry fees was 100 bucks for the ground floor and 150 bucks for both and despite me telling the guy to give me the 150 buck ticket he gave me a 100 buck one so we took it. At each room of the palace is a well trained guide who guides us through the interesting parts of the room.

View of the valley

The first room had pictures and scrolls with the history of the Dogra kings. There were also fine clothes worn by the ladies of yester years on display.

120 kg gold throne

In the second room there were many artifacts, a Nataraja, several books written by Dr Karan Singh, sculptures and so on. The upper floor apparently has a library with 25000 antique books.

Back view

We stepped out of that room on to the corridor from which one had a fabulous view of the river Tawi and the city on the other side. The lawns behind made for such a pretty setting that one can imagine the royals having tea in these lawns in those yesteryears.

Lawns overlooking the Tawi

Back view of the palace

The next room had some paintings and then the most interesting piece of work - a 120 kg gold throne. It is secured and has a guard obviously.

Further down were two rooms filled with paintings with Kashmiri themes. 

Jyo and Chattu in front of the palace

Maharaja Gulab Singh's statue

 

School children playing

Beside Amar Mahal there are newer constructions which are now let out as hotels and we could see that there was a wedding going on.

We walked out and saw a statue of Maharaja Gulab Singh in the park. We watched the kids play around for a bit and then left. Beautiful.