Rani Sarma studied at Andhra University and Osmania University and taught history for two decades. She founded the Historical Society of Hyderabad, is a member of INTACH and engaged in heritage and environmental activities in Vizag. This delightful book is about the Deodis (mostly gone) in Hyderabad about which she researched during her stay at Bella Vista (now ASCI) at Khairatabad, Hyderabad, one of the Princely palaces of yesteryear.
Deodis are palatial residences and at one time she says there were about 1200 of them of different sizes and shapes in the old city. Almost all of them have been demolished including the most stately ones (which could have brought in so much tourism now if they were a little patient or had some vision).
There is an elaborate, elegant and quaint introduction by Nawab Mir Moazzam Hussain who was related to and grew up among some of the major players of that era and his account gives a nice insight into those times. He talks of the time when the two princes, sons of the 7th Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan returned after their marriages to Turkish Princesses Durru Shevar and Niloufer at Nice France. Princess Durru Shevar was the only daughter of the deposed Ottoman Caliph, successor to the prophet, spiritual and temporal leader of Sunni Muslims, Abdul Majid Han. The Caliphate was abolished after World War I, and the Caliph was exiled to Nice, France where he lived in reduced circumstances. Durru Shevar was his only daughter.
Fluent in English. French, Turkish Durru Shevar learned Urdu. She swam, played tennis, rode horses. She broke the purdah system and would attend public meetings. Both marriages broke up and the two Turkish princesses left their husbands and returned to Europe. However there are hospitals named after both of them in Hyderabad, Niloufer Hospital being more popular.
Nawab Moazzam Hussain recounts how the princes, sons of the seventh Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan - Azam Jah as Commander-in-Chief of the Hyderabad Army and Moazzam Jah as Chairman of the Hyderabad Development Board - suffered broken marriages. Though the general impression was that they led a hectic night life with parties that went on till the week hours of the morning, there was a human side also to both. Like the time Azam Jah went to console widows of those who lost their lives in the Nalgonda agitation.
Nawab Mir Moazzam Hussain reminiscences his days in the many deodis (he was related to some of the high nobles of those days). He reminiscences how the Diwan ki Deodi of Salar Jung I was an open house, its magnificence. He talks of the baradaris and their 12 doorways - Chando Lal baradari, Salar Jung's Lakkad Kot (which is no more), Irrum Manzil's baradari (where aalams were placed). At Irrum Manzil he remembers Christmas and Dussehra and Holi being celebrated with gusto. The red arch of Diwan-ki-Deodi, the Gharial ki Deodi of Fakhr-Ul-Mulk at Mir Alam Mandi, the majestic gateway to Irrum Numa or Fakhrabad at TB Hospital (no more, destroyed for road widening).
He recounts how the Paigahs, fierce loyalists of the Nizam, were related to the Nizams through marriage and as such received more favorable terms - they were next to the royals in terms of status. Of them, Asman Jah and Vicar ul-Umrah held the post of Prime Minister during the sixth Nizam Mahbub Ali Khan's period. Nawab Moin-Ud-Dowla (after who we have a famous All India Moin Ud Dowla Gold Cup for Cricket), son of Sir Asman Jah was a sportsman and a keen hunter.
He recollects Raja Shamraj's magnificent library, the Malwala palace of Raja Dharam Karan family (two streets at Ameerpet are named after them) - Ram and Sham Karan. Iqbal Chand a younger member of Dharam Karan family played for Madras University. It's a wonderful foreword and sets the right context to the book by giving an authentic peek into those times. To understand the same, a bit of the history of the Nizams, and the Asaf Jahi period (1724-1948)
A Glimpse into the Asaf Jahi History
In 1707 Aurangzeb died and the Mughal empire was in disarray. Nizam-ul-Mulk, Governor of the Deccan for the Mughal Empire, declared the Asaf Jah dynasty as Viceroy of the region, in 1924. The dynasty ruled till 1948, a period of for 224 years, until the Hyderabad state was absorbed into the dominion of India. Despite forming the Asaf Jah dynasty, Nizam Ul-Mulk always considered himself a Subedar of the Emperor, a Viceroy of the Mughals and as such the Friday Khutbah was read in the Emperor's name and coins were minted in the Mughal Emperor's name. It may be noted that the Nizam Ul-Mulk was a shrewd administrator and brought along with him good men from Delhi to help govern Hyderabad - the Paigah ancestor Khair Khan, the daftardars Moro Pant and Naro Pant, the Finance people from the family of Todar Mal who was Finance Minister for Akbar and such. Good leadership with able men.
Jagirs and Jagirdar System
Upon taking over the kingdom of the Qutb Shahis, Nizam Ul-Mulk bestowed jagirs (a grant of revenue land - jagirdars could raise revenue from lands or jagirs allotted to them) and titles in return for military support. This practice was furthered by the second Nizam, Nizam Ali Khan and his Prime Minister Arastu Jah, a patron of art and music, who bestowed more jagirs to others. The Nizam's own lands were known as Sarf-e-Khas lands - he was the biggest jagirdar of all.
Many of these jagirs were of hereditary nature or as bestowed by the ruler. Since revenues from the jagirs afforded a comfortable life, many nobles were also patrons of art. Artists would also request jagirs for their work. Artists such as Pandit Motiram (father of Pandit Jasraj) and Bade Ghulam Ali Khan visited the city on the request of these nobles (Bade Ghaulam Ali is buried in the city in Daira Mir Momin). The bigger the jagir, the wealthier and higher in social rank, the noble was. The wealthier and higher the rank, the more impressive the deodi.
Hierarchy
The Paigahs married into the Nizam's family and were next to the Nizam's in hierarchy. The Paigah Nobles who were military chiefs had their own army and were given the benefit of paying no tax unlike other jagirdars. The 5 Hindu Samasthans (Gadwal, Wanaparthi, Jatprole, Amarchinta and Palvancha) were also given the benefit of not paying tax. These five Samasthans, plus another nine samasthans, predated the Mughal invasion in 1687 and were permitted to remain independent.
Other important nobles were the Umra-e-Uzzams, premier nobles relegated to the second position after the emergence of the Paigahs as kinsmen of the ruler. Four families were granted this status - Salar Jungs (six Prime Ministers of the Hyderabad State came from this family), Chandu Lal and his great grandson Kishen Pershad (Peshidars and two prime Ministers from this family), the Khane Khanan and the Fakhr Ul-Mulk family. These families were also exempted from paying taxes to the ruler.
Below them were the Rai Rayans and the Malwalas who were revenue officials. Then came several jagirdars who had been granted jagirs of various sizes. At the bottom were small jagirdars who had no privileges or had been granted jagirs for a specific purpose. The greatest virtue anyone could have those days was loyalty to the Nizam.
Bringing in Professionals and a Pan-India Culture
The good work of the first Nizam and his team was slowly being undone by machinations among the nobles who were mainly focused on currying favour with the Nizam and lining their pockets. Noticing the the administration needed better hands, the Prime Minister, Salar Jung 1, in 1853, brought in administrators from the Aligarh Muslim University to revive a system that was gradually becoming inefficient and declining. People like Maulvi Sayed Hussain Bilgrami, Maulvi Chirag Ali, Rai Muralidhar, Dr Aghornath Chatterji (father of Sarojini Naidu) were brought in and they did good work. The seventh Nizam continued the tradition by appointing people like Sir Ali Imam from Patna, Akbar Hydari from Mumbai.
Through all this, the patronage of arts and preservation of heritage and culture went side by side. The 7th Nizam who was known to be a miser despite being the richest man on the planet in his day, made donations for the upkeep of temples at Bhadrachalam, Yadagiri Gutta, Tirupati etc, spent money for the restoration of Ajanta caves frescoes, donated to Shantiniketan, Banaras Hindu University, Andhra University, Telugu Academy, the Gokhale Memorial Scholarship. Funds were allotted to the Bhandarkar Oriental Research Institute for publication of the Mahabharata. Sir Amin Jung had one of the best private libraries in the world, Sir Imad Ul Mulk and his son were involved in the Ajanta Ellora conservation project, Sir Nizamat Jung built his house at Bella Vista based on the model of the college he went to in Cambridge.
Deodi Architecture
The nobles and wealthy lived in deodis characterized by prominent main entrances (the size of the gate was a symbol of power - the higher the better - big enough to accommodate an elephant which only a few high ranking nobles were allowed), high enclosing walls, inner courtyards in styles still prevalent in Marathwada and Telangna region. As the residence of a Nawab or Raja or Chief of a dargah, it was a fortified residence which provided security for the family and others in troubled times (trouble with Marathas continued till 1795). In time, new aspects began to be added to the deodis like the khazana, tosh khana, farrash khana, bawarchi khana, baggi khana, motor khana, residences for servants etc.
The deodis had a jillu khana (where the nobles alighted), an upper floor called naubat khana where the naubat (traditional music) was played three times a day to announce the time, a roshan khana which was used to light the deodi. Playing naubat was a privilege bestowed by the rulers on a few just as many other such privileges (and titles). Before the naubat practice, cannon shots were used to tell the time.
Each deodi had a series of courtyards - public enclosures for men, private zenanas for women, places for the family to meet, revenue offices, court, administrative work. A Dalan or a reception area with a takht or a musnud where the master of the deodi sat (in green or velvet colour) yellow being the colour of the ruler. The entrance to zenana was guarded by a lady who would announce the arrival of every male (including the master). One rule followed by the noble families was that the master and mistress held court every morning and every member had to attend formally dressed, attired to pay respects.
Most large deodis had baradaris (pleasure houses) which are structures with 12 doors, a style that came from the Qutb Shahi times (Taramati baradari is an example). Popular baradaris of those days were Chandu lal baradari (where Dewan Chandu Lal entertained the 3rd Nizam with whom he had fallen out of favour and where the famous courtesan Ma Laqa Bai Chand entertained), Lakkad Kot of Diwan Deodi (another popular place which was used to entertain guests). Other famous baradiris were at Khursheed Jah deodi, Paigah's deodi, Irrum Manzil where Nawab Fajhr Ul-Mulk resided, the baradari of Hussain Kothi.
Of the 1200 deodies by the 19th century, the main ones that the author focused on were the Paigahs Deodis and palaces (they built the Basheer Bagh Palace, Saroor Nagar Palace, Khurshid Jah deodi, Iqbal-ud-daula deodi, Falaknuma palace, Asman gad Palace), Diwan ki Deodi (Salar Jung's deodi), Chandu Lal's Deodi, his great grandson Maharaja Kishen Pershad's hereditary Peshkar deodi, Rai Rayans Daftardars Deodi at Shah Ali Banda, the Panch Mahalla Palace, Diwan Deodi, Malwala palace etc.
Add to the above Nawab Fakhr-ul-Mulk's many edifices like the Asad Palace, Irrum Manzil Palace, Irrum Numa Palace, Nawab Mehdi Jung's palace in Moula Ali and so on.
A brief glimpse into these main deodis.
Diwan Deodi
Across the road from Madina building lay the Diwan Deodi which stretched from the Musi riverfront till the Mir Alam Mandi. This was home for six dewans or Prime Ministers of the Hyderabad state. The deodi was red and white originally and was located close to the Purana Haveli. It was the epicentre of power when Salar Jung I was the defacto ruler with child King Mahbub Ali Khan.
The deodi was built by the first dewan from this family, Syed Abul Kasim who was popularly known as Mir Alam. He started the deodi and his descendants, over the next two centuries, added and improved on the original. It occupied the whole block on the Southern gate from Chatta bazaar to Mir Alam Mandi, Charminar to Purani Haveli (and had shops on the outside). Now only the arch is left and the place is occupied by wholesale merchants, mechanics.
In its heyday visitors would request permission to see it as it was filled with fountains, statues, gardens, Aina Khana (reception), library which had thousands of manuscripts, China khana, the veiled Rebecca, treasury, court, bedrooms, zenana, a movie house, tosh khana, farrash khana, baggi khana, motor khana etc.
The Diwan Deodi was not a happy place for its owners except Salar Jung I. Mir Alam (dewan from 1804-1808) a migrant from Persia and part of the Nizam's army which defeated Tipu Sultan alongside the British, came back with a large booty to a large reception. But some nobles poisoned the Nizam's ears that he had kept some part of the booty without disclosing the same to the Nizam, and he was thrown in jail for four years (and again reappointed before death). He built Mir Alam Tank to provide drinking water, sarais for travelers on the way to Pune and Masulipatnam, created the Mir Alam Mandi as the Diwan Deodi had shops all around. At the bottom was the residence of Siddi Amber, the Sudanese house keeper of Salar Jung I which remains untouched as on date. There is a bazaar named after him called Siddi Amber bazaar. In those days Afghans, Baluchs, Pathans, Rohillas, Punajbis, Siddis, Turks roamed around with all sorts of weapons, with volatile tempers, so Siddi Amber had his job cut out.
Next most famous in the line of Salar Jungs was Mir Turab Ali Khan Salar Jung I (1829-83), the fourth in the family to be dewan. An able administrator, perhaps the best of that era, he borrowed the British model and adapted it to local conditions. He was co-regent of the sixth Nizam Mahbub Ali Khan and was instrumental in quelling the 1857 revolt (led by Turum Khan) and sided with the British, The good of his state and the dignity of his ruler was paramount to Salar Jung I. He fought for Berar, raised money from the London money market to finance the Hyderabad Railway, established Nizam as the Soveriegn ruler, kept diplomatic channels open when the Resident refused to follow customs like being barefooted and sitting on the floor when in the presence of the Nizam (British Resident Saunders had his army backing him up on this principle - Salar Jung warned him of dire consequences initially but let it slide and tightened other areas).
He built the famous Lakkad Kot baradari, close to the Delhi gate (where Sati was performed in those days before it was banned in 1875 by Salar Jung I). Salar Jung I was a collector of art, a philanthropist to whom Ghalib wrote seeking financial help. Salar Jung I, one of the finest administrators, lies buried in Daira Mir Momin (a Shia saint), which is the family burial place of the Salar Jungs. For many years after his death people would still keep their petitions on his grave they say.
His son Salar Jung II, Mir Laik Khan was made Prime Minister at the age of twenty two, but fell out of favour with the Nizam and resigned after two years. After a journey of Europe which he undertook, he wrote a travelogue and died aged a mere twenty seven. One account says that Laik Ali Khan went away to Pune after resigning and and lived there for the rest of his life in exile. His son, Yusuf Ali Khan, Salar Jung III, was born in Pune. Having lost his father very early, he remained a bachelor his whole life, and it is he who created the Salar Jung museum collection. Salar Jung III was Prime Minister when he was twenty three, and he was removed after a couple of years. One account says that he was depressed and the doctor said he could take up a hobby like collecting things and he went headlong into it.
Though they had to live in reduced circumstances, the title and jagir were returned. Yusuf Ali retired from public life, but jagir at Kuppal earned good money and he was a shrewd investor having invested in the Nzam's Railways, Shahbad Cement, Singareni Collieries, Taj Mahal Hotel. His fantastic collection of 47, 000 artifacts, 47, 000 manuscripts needed a separated building to host. He died at 49 years of age just after the government took away all the jagir system and left his vast collection without a heir. The Government of India and a Trust formed by his family members established the Salar Jung museum - first in the Diwan Deodi and then in the new building built in its current place.
Peshkar's Deodi
The Peshkar's Deodi at Shah Alam Mandi was the residence of Maharaja Kishen Pershad who was both Peshkar and Prime Misniter. His ancestor was Todar Mal the Finance Minister for Akbar and when Nizam Ul Mulk came to Hyderabad he brought along with him Todar Mal's descendant Rai Mulchand. Down the order from that family came the Machiavellian Chandu Lal who became Prime Minister. Theirs was a hereditary Peshkar (which was inherited by his descendant Kishen Pershad). Chandu Lal was known for his political machinations and manipulations, played the British against the nobles and the Nizam and finally earned the wrath of the Nizam - the third Nizam Sikandar Jah. Chandu Lal defrauded the state, sidelined the Nizam, and was finally forced to resign. But they say he walked away with important documents, a hefty pension and jagirs.
Unlike him his great grandson Kishen Pershad was much loved by the people and was Prime Mnister of the Hyderabad state for 35 years. He was classmates and friends with the sixth Nizam Mahbub Ali Khan and the noble Fakhr-ul-Mulk. Kishen Pershad was a man of many talents and knew Persian, Urdu, Arabic, Sanskrit, English fluently. He was a poet, a calligraphist, painter, photographer, cook, and authored 57 books in Persian, Urdu, Marathi. His pen name was Shad (Shad Nagar is named after him) and he would hold mushairas, supported writers like Dagh Dehlvi, Iqbal, Sarojini Naidu, Aamir Minai. His charity was legendary and he would go out with his car full of coins which he would throw out to the poor. Kishen Pershad had seven wives, four Muslim and three Hindu and they all followed their own religions. Though he was removed as PM by the 7th Nizam who had his doubts about his loyalty when he ascended the throne in 1911, he was reappointed in 1925 and was Prime Minister till 31. Tagore wrote letters and visited him seeking donations for Shanti Niketan. Maharaja Kishen Pershad died in debt.
In the 80s his mansion Khas Bagh was demolished.
Paigahs deodis
Paigahs (which means high rank) was a title given by the second Nizam Nizam ALi Khan to Abul Fateh Khan Tegh Jung for services rendered. The Paigahs were military chiefs who provided household troops to guard the Nizam and were known for their fierce loyalty to the Nizam. They claim descent from Caliph Hazrat Omar,
Nizam Ul mulk when he came down to the Deccan brought along Khair Khan to Hyderabad as his military chief. Khair Khan won a decisive battle against the Marathas in 1745. He died in 1752 and was followed by his son Tegh Jung who was once offered the job of Prime Minister but refused saying that he was a soldier, not an administrator. When asked to raise a garden he said he would rather raise troops. Such was the man.
His son Fakhruddin Khan married the Nizam's daughter. On their jagirs they did not have to pay taxes and also their jagirs were in perpetuity - which means they remained wealthy all through. Fakhruddin Khan was a scholar who was interested in astronomy and brought the Nizam's observatory to Hyderabad. He helped the British quell the 1857 uprising and was known to start the first school.
He built the deodi in Jahanuma, designed the Khurshid Jah deodi baradari, built the Iqbal Ud-Daula deodi (the street on which they stand is named after him - Amir-e-Kabir). His grandson Asman Jah was co-regent with Salar Jung I during the reign of Mahbub Ali Khan (1887-94). Others in the family who became Prime Ministers were Asman Jah and Vicar Ul-Umrah. When the Paigah estate split the portion that belonged to Shams Ul-Umrah II went to his son Asman Jah and the portion that belonged to Shams Ul-Umrah III went to his sons Khurshid Jah and Vicar-Ul-Umrah.
Asman Jah built the clock tower at Mahbub Chowk, the Basheer Bagh palace (demolished in 1960), the Asman Garh palace. He designed the Khursheed Jah deodi where the female Zafar Paltan was raised. Vizar Ul-Umrah, who served as the Prime Minister to the sixth Nizam Manbub Ali Khan (Vikarabad is named after him), built the Falaknuma Palace, the Paigah Palace and Vikhar Manzil in Begumpet, the Spanish mosque etc.
Rai Rayan Deodi
Rai Rayan Deodi belonged to the Pants (lineage from Krishnaji Pant who served Shah Jahan). Nizam Ul Mulk (once again) brought along with him the sons of Krishnaji Pant who had served Shah Jahan for 35 years - Moro and Naro Pant. Moro Pant was made Peshkar first and upon his death, his brother Naro Pant became Peshkar. they were given titles such as Rai Rayan, Dayanawant, Dharmavant (there's (Dharmavant College), Raja. They played an important role in the Nizam's wars with the Peshwas mediating skillfully so both parties were happy. They were Mahashtrians and believed in Goddess Renuka Mata - the deity is still there in their deodi.
Raja Shamraj's museum and library were very popular. Tagore visited him
Malwala Palace
Malwala Palace demolished after the Conservation Act in 2000. So impressive was the Palace that Maharaja of Mysore, Kashmir, Baroda and Jaipur visited the palace. They had Goan cooks and brewed their own special brews for which they had a license. Their specialty was teethar ka sherbat. Other Kayastha families were also allowed to brew their own special brews. Dharam Karan and Sham Karan were revenue record keepers and have roads named after them in Ameerpet.
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Its a fascinating account of the times gone by. Its amazing how they have been just left to rot - many continue to be left to rot. Glad that Rani Sarma documented all this. I hope to check out what is remaining of these mansions. Must read for a glimpse into Hyderabad's history.
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