Hyderabad by Walk - Gunfoundry

 For someone who studied for four years in All Saints High School whose address is Gunfoundry (1783), i never found out why and where this Gunfoundry was. It had to be somewhere surely! So the walk definitely needed me to explore and see what this was about. 

Gunfoundry as it appears from the gate 

We crossed the road from Aliya and went past the Lepakshi emporium which was the route we took for four years in All Saints - get off the bus at Nizam College and walk past Lepakshi to school. As we entered the lane I saw a brick structure which was quite unimpressive but with a gate that had an important look about it with some government markings.

I could not make head or tail of it and asked a young man who was passing by if this was Gunfoundry and he confirmed it and said yes it was. Apparently the brick structure has some stuff under the ground according to him. It was locked and no one was allowed inside.

Old buildings in the area behind Gunfoundry

According to Wikipedia, my fav source, Gunfoundry was also called Top ka Sancha and was built in 1783. It was a cannonball factory set up by the French General Michel Raymond during the times of the second Nizam of Hyderabad Nizam Ali Khan. Apparently its the only surviving gunfoundry of the 18th century.

The beautiful Mahboobia School

Originally built of brick walls 50 feet high and tapering off from 25 high onwards, the foundry was built by brick, lime mortar and iron rods etc.

Ah. another ghost exorcised. Now i know what, why and where this Gunfoundry is! 

Hyderabad by Walk - Aliya School for Boys

The last walk I could only peep into the dilapidated Aliya High School for Boys (1872) from the outside but this time the gates were wide open and a solitary person was sweeping the deserted grounds. The school was founded by Salar Jung I during the times of the second Nizam in the premises of Nizam College as Madrassa-e-Aliya. It was a school for the elite and the sons of the city's nobility. It was one of the best schools in the city.

Aliya High School for Boys - A Heritage Structure

The Literature Dept flourishing - I Love You baby 

A look at the state of the building

Famous alumni reads like a who's who of those times from the princes to scientists to engineers to diplomats to sportspeople to writers - Nawab Ali Nawaz Jung (engineer), Ali Yavar Jung, the 7th Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan himself, his two grandsons Princes Mukarram Jah and Muffakam Jah , Kishen Pershad (Prime Minister), Asif Iqbal and Ghulam Ahmed (cricketers), Idris Hasan Latif (PVSM), Raja Rao (writer).

The front portico

The side entrance

Perhaps the Main entrance - decent shape

The right side of the building where the main entrance is

Originally it was run by Anglo Indians and  was one of the top schools in the early years. After Operation Polo it was taken over by the Government and steadily went to shambles. Now a heritage building which looks like it might fall down anytime, its surprising they have any activity in the school. 

In another great twist, the Department of Education is located right behind this school in the most run down parts of it!

Hyderabad by Walk - Clock Tower, LB Stadium

We continued the walk from Gun Park towards our final destination which was Grand Hotel. On the way i stopped to see the clock tower at the Police Control Room which always looked impressive but I never stopped a moment to admire it. 

We crossed the road and peeped at the clock tower which looks every bit as majestic as any but there's precious little written about it. I noticed that the path led to  some volleyball training that was going on in a rectangular ground which is on the border of Lal Bahadur Stadium (earlier called Fateh Maidan). We stepped inside and found many parents also sitting on steps that also served as the pavilion or seating arrangements.  It was good to see so much serious sporting activity in the mornings, parents waiting to drop and and pick up their children. Further on we came upon some handball practice to the right and then to the left the tennis stadium and tennis courts (not as well used). 

We came over to the stadium side and passed by the halls which were under the steps - the table tennis halls where I used to play in 1977 going from school, the shuttle badminton halls etc. The ground has a bit of history. It was originally called Fateh Maidan because this vast open ground was where Aurangzeb's Mughal army camped during its 8 month long siege of Golconda. When they won, they named the ground Fateh Maidan which translates to Victory Square. The name stayed until 1967 when it was renamed Lal Bahadur Shastri Stadium after the Prime Minister of India. 

The stadium is owned by the Sports Council and previously it was used to play International and national cricket matches by the Hyderabad Cricket Association which had a small office in the ground. The stadium had a capacity of 25000. It hosted three tests and 14 ODIs. The first Test was against New Zealand in 1955.

This was where we watched international cricket matches - I remember watching a South Zone-England encounter in 1982 with passes we earned thanks to playing for Hyderabad Under 15 team and helping our team win (and the horrible state camp before that tour led by Prem Kumar and Kaleem Ul Haq). I remember Baig sir (and Vaseem Ul Haq sir) coaching there for years, running the show brilliantly and producing many great cricketers. I remember going to him. The exercises running up and down the steps. Another time a South Zone Pakistan and another time a South Zone West Indies. We would get passes those days - now they do not give ex-players passes anymore.  

Fateh Maidan is also where we played a few league matches for MCC under the legendary ML Jaisimha and other matches like the Thumps Up trophy between All Saints XI and Rest of Hyderabad XI which All Saints won! Also where I played a practice match against Zimbabwe in the lead up to the Reliance cup and knocked over two wickets. 

That's me bowling opener Brown! 2-17 in 6 overs.

Fateh Maidan club is also where we used to frequent with Ranjan who was a member (and since I worked in IDBI which was just across the road it was easy. The shopping complex towards the Nizam College had a cute bookstore which I frequented but never bought any book. I got my first car stereo fitted in one of those shops on the other side. Then there was the Irani cafe (don't know if its still there) which people would say was owned by actress Tabu's family. Another memory is doing one of those school drills for some state function with some sticks - crazy. Hated that.    

Somehow I realise I spent a lot of time in this area - school was at Gun Foundry, cricket was at the stadium, work at IDBI. Hmmm.

Hyderabad by Walk - Gun Park

 Right opposite the Assembly is a park which is known as Gun Park. I never got a close look at it so we went across to it. There was a fence around it earlier but they have removed it. However there was a security guard who asked what I was looking for. I said I wanted to look around and he said I could.

Telangana Martyrs Memorial or the Gun Park Martyrs Stupa

We stepped in to see a few cannons placed on the lawns. Then there was the Telangana Martyrs Memorial - a Stupa called the Gun Park Martyrs Stupa built IN 1975 to commemorate the sacrifice of the 369 students who died in the agitation for a separate Telangana state in 1969 falling to bullet wounds. (Also there are cannons placed there so I am not sure about the real story.) 

Guns and the memorial

That's one of the reasons why they call it the Gun Park apparently because guns were used to kill the 369 students. I do not know if their names are written - it would have been nice if they were.

The structure was sculpted by former Professor at the JNTU Fine Arts College, A Yadagiri Rao and he explains that the black granite base is to depict mourning, the 9 holes meant to represent bullets, the sun arch from Sanchi stupa, plaques on four sides, 9 strips standing for 9 districts, the Dharma chakra standing for tolerance and truth, the red granite for sacrifice, the chakra for peace and love and white lilies for the freshness of youth and immortality.

Statue of Sardar Vallabh bhai Patel

One wonders how many such slices of history we miss in our daily grind. We stood there for a moment, for those 369 young souls and headed out.  

Across the road from the Assembly, on the other side of the Gun Park are the iconic All India Radio (AIR) building which broadcast Yuva Vani which introduced ABBA and company to me and the Nizam Club.

Hyderabad by Walk - Assembly Building

 We stepped out of the Public Gardens and veered to the left to peek at the magnificent Assembly Building. Apparently it was built in 1905 to commemorate the 40th birthday of the 6th Nizam Mir Mahboob Ali Khan. As is evident it was designed by specially commissioned architects.

The place was well guarded by fencing - electric and all so we just peered from the outside at the massive Gandhi statue. The words 'Mera Jeevan Hi Mera Sandesh Hai' are written.

A view of the fencing

   

Magnificent entrance

Very impressive. Never get to observe it when we are travelling on the road.

Hyderabad by Walk - Public Gardens

We have all passed by the Public Gardens from the outside - some of us have been on the inside. Decided to check it off the list (though I had been there last year with Vasu). So come morning and I went off with Sunnie early in the morning. I have some vague memory of people sitting in the lawns with their picnic baskets and stuff but its just too long ago. Anyway, we went in from the main entrance, parked to the left where there are some very old vehicles parked and also some school buses and other public transport which have been left by their owners.  

The main entrance - from the inside

I researched on the faithful Wikipedia as usual and got some facts (hopefully right). Was called the Bagh-e-Aam (Public Garden) or Bagham and was developed in 1846 over a 54 acre area with a 7 acre pond. It is one of the oldest parks in Hyderabad. 

The lawns - one of museums at the other end

The Horticulture department has taken up office here which is apt. Since it was early in the morning we found a lot of early morning regulars walking in with their Jai Jinendra or Jai Shri Ram and stuff. People were setting up their juice stalls and such and the morning activity had begun.To the left we passed the Telangana State Museum which has been on my list for a while and something which I will soon accomplish, the lake a little ahead which is almost dry now with its gazebo and island. To the right was a huge lawn with another beautiful gazebo where people were exercising and warming up. We wandered around until we hit the gate the opened to the Nampally Road, past the Lalitha Kala Thoranam, the nursery and then wandered back alongside the railway track.You enter and walk to the left and pass a lawn with a gazebo, to the left is a lake which was dry but which has some boating activity etc otherwise. Further down we see more lawns to the left, the Asif tennis club which has been around since we were kids. 

The Legislative Council Building?

We hit the path that leads to another majestic gate that leads in and out of Public Gardens on the Nampally Road side. To our left was the Jubilee Hall which is considered an architectural masterpiece but I guess one has no access to it. My one memory of the Jubilee Hall was being felicitated by the then Chief Minister Shri NT Rama Rao when the Hyderabad team won the Ranji Trophy (1987). Of course I had no idea of the importance of that building nor the occasion so we just went ahead and took our mementos and cheques for  Rs. 1101 and came back. Apparently it was used as the State Legislative Council premises until they built another building for that in the Public Gardens itself.

From what I gathered Jubilee Hall was constructed as a royal palace in 1913 for the seventh Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan and is considered an architectural masterpiece - it is well hidden behind all sorts of foliage that you cannot get a glimpse of it. Designed by Zain Yar Jung whose name is associated with many architectural marvels of Hyderabad in an Indo Persian style, the Jubilee Hall was so named when it was used to commemorate the silver jubilee celebrations of the 7th Nizam in 1937. They put up a grand spectacle with about 10,000 troops on show and many guests. The Nizam sat on a specially made gold plated chair (which is preserved in the Nizam's museum) and received gifts and mementos from various state departments and state guests.

This is the gate that leads to Nampally Road

A little further up to the right comes the famous Jawahar Bal Bhavan which was a source of great entertainment to us as kids because we were allowed to tune in at an ungodly hour of 3 or 4 in the afternoon on Sundays and listen in. It was great fun. This Bal Bhavan also had many summer activities which children would participate in. I never did and was always in envy of those who did. A huge square lawn in front of the Bal Bhavan where to one side was a Health Museum and another Museum to the other sie. We walked along the periphery of the lawn, walked past some people who were chilling and just taking in the morning sun - another thing I envy is those who can just sit by themselves.

There are many walkers, all shapes and sizes, with no entry fee which is beautiful (not like the KBR Park which has become elitist with a high entry ticket). Apparently there was a large fountain of 1937 vintage which was demolished for celebrating the Telangana Foundation Day in 2019.

The gazebo

.

The Telangana State Museum

As we neared the gate we could see a lovely mosque to the left, a canteen for the State Legislative Assembly personnel perhaps.

Its a brilliant place to go for a leisurely morning walk simply because you see all kinds of people - many friends groups meet up, laughter clubs, father-son duos, serious exercisers. Something about it keeps you in touch with life around us as it is.        

Hyderabad by Walk - Yousufain Dargah, Khamosh dargah, Moazzam Jahi Market

Sunnie  and I walked past the Ek Minar and followed maps which led to some graveyard like place. While we stood there looking confused a young autowallah showed up and wanted to know if we wanted a ride to the dargah. When we told him we would rather walk he showed us the way from the main road which he said was better accessible. There was also a small gully from where we stood from where we could access it.  

Yousufain Dargah

Walked down and turned right into the famous Yousufain dargah famous of the tomb of the sufi saint Yousuf Baba Sharif. 

Its a huge complex and obviously quite popular as we saw many people there early in the morning. 

Yousufain dargah from the main entrance

We walked past a rather large graveyard - to the left and the right, a small, cramped road and we ended up at the side entrance to the dargah. A shopkeeper selling flowers asked us if we wanted to buy flowers. We did not. He told us to remove our shoes and go in. 

We entered the entrance and there were small shops to the right and left, all shut at the early hour, but selling all kinds of stuff for those who may have come from faraway to the dargah. Food stalls and stuff. Some devotees were sleeping. Some women were cleaning up the place. We walked in and spent some time at the tomb. Sunnie told me that he felt an incredible calm come over him when he meditated near the tomb. We walked out from the front side and walked back in and then went out the way we came in.

Heading out - people sleeping on the sides

Yousuf Baba Sharif  or Dargah Yousufain is the place where two Sufi saints  Syed Shah Yousufuddin and Syed Shah Sharfuddin are buried. Both saints, Yousuf from Egypt and Sharfuddin from Palestine,  were at the Haj, where they apparently met Sheikh Kaleem-ullah Jahanabadi, became his disciples and followed him to Delhi. Since most of his followers were in the army the two saints also joined the armed forces. After the Deccan conquest, the two saints left the army and stayed back in Hyderabad.

Old gateway

 

The dome of the dargah was constructed during the Nizam's times. The burial ground next to the dargah has tombs of notable people including that of Daagh Dehlvi, a famous Urdu poet and court musician.

Hazrat Shah Khamosh Dargah

We wore our shoes and were pottering about when we saw an old gateway leading into a small gated community - the old types. So private it looked that we asked a person standing near the gate if we could go in and access another beautiful dargah behind. He said we could and we walked past the old houses.

The door and gateway

Above the door

The dargah visible behind the gated community

At the other end we came upon a beautiful, peaceful dargah right behind the Yousufain dargah. Very quiet and very beautiful. This is the dargah of Hazrat Shah Khamosh, a Sufi saint from Bidar. In 1204 he went to Ajmer Sharif and became the disciple of the famous Sufi saint from Ajmer Moinuddin Chisti. The Bab was known to speak very little and hence the title, Khamosh Dargah. It is a quiet place with very few people.     

The Hazrat Shah Khamosh dargah

Another view 

Road to Begum Bazar  

I checked Google maps and it showed a path to Moazzam Jahi Market via Darussalam and Begum Bazaar. I never walked or drove through these streets much and any driving here when the city wake sup requires complete attention. So it was a pleasure to walk along and chance upon an old structure here and there, some old deodis, tombs and such.

An gate to the Hazrat Khamosh dargah

Caught a nice morning sun

Another impressive front - no clue what it is though

Another beautiful old structure

Back on the main road and we passed the Darussalam building.

Darussalam, AIMIM Head Quarters 

A well maintained facade and I wondered what it was and we realised it was Darusalam, the Head Quarters of the AIMIM. I stepped in and viewed the large grounds, some educational institutions to one side and another large building to the left. 

Inside Darussalam - from the gateway

Entrance to Darussalam - from the inside

Begum Bazar

Though I had no clue where we were by the end of the road i saw a couple of signs that said we were in Begum Bazar. I saw a beautiful Ram temple there on the way. Didn't explore much - some other day I guess.

Ram temple

Lovely place.

Further up we saw some more old structures and turned left on to Begum Bazar and then landed up near Moazzam Jahi market.

Moazzam Jahi Market 

We ended up near Moazzam Jahi market which is a beautiful sight to behold any day but I think we were too tired to walk around and poke and explore. We saw some wedding photo shoots happening and tried to keep ourselves out of their albums. 

The structure looked magnificent in the morning sun but since the traffic had picked up I could not get a good pic of it. Some other time.

Moazzam Jahi market

Moazzam Jahi market (1935) is a granite structure built by the City Improvement Board which was mooted by the 7th Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan in 1912 to plan the city in a proper manner. The market was named after his elder son Prince Moazzam Jah. The architecture was kept secular and was drawn from Kakatiya, Qutb Shah, Mughal and Asaf Jah architectural styles.  

Photoshoots going on near Famous Ice Cream

We took some pics and then legged it all the way back to IDBI,  a good two hours on the road.