Wednesday, February 26, 2025

Koh-i-Noor - William Dalrymple and Anita Anand

 The authors try to trace the history of the famous Koh-i-Noor which is the 89th biggest diamond in the world apparently. The book starts with the Koh-i-Noor being taken from the young ten year old Duleep Singh, son of Maharaja Ranjit Singh handing over the kingdom and the K to the British who promptly send it off to the Queen. Th Sikhs are defeated in the Battle of Chillianwala with the British after the death of the King and that's that. K has always remained with the British since, exhibited with the Peacock Throne of Shahjehan. Other famous diamonds that are compared with the K are Darya i Noor (Teheran), the Great Mughal diamond (Russia).



Historically Golconda mines were the only source of diamonds in the world from the Kollur mines on the banks of River Godavari until the Brazil Mines were discovered in 1725. The Golconda diamonds were extracted from river beds as natural crystals. The diamonds were described as heavenly bodies where Gods dwelled in them and bought prosperity and many wives as well Diamonds are mentioned in the Garuda Purana. Some Hindus believe it is the mystical Syamantaka mani. Anyway there is no right connection - perhaps the Ghoree dynasty acquired it, then the Tughluqs, the Syeds, the Lodhis and then the Mughals until Muhammad Shah Rangila (who definitely had the K with him). 

Anyway, they say that Babur got a gift of a diamond which everyone thinks is perhaps the K, but was known as Babur's diamond. His son Humayun almost lost it, and used it to trade off his protection with Persian King Shah from where it somehow made its way to India and the Sultan of Ahmad Nagar Nizam Shah. There's no proof of the diamond being the K though the Mughal treasuries were full of expensive stuff (12 treasuries - 9 for cash, 3 for stones and jewels). Perhaps the first known fact is that a trader Mir Jumla presented a diamond (possibly the K) to Shah Jehan which was is embedded in the peacock throne. 

While Muhammad Shah, a peace loving patron of arts was ruling Delhi, Persian warlord Nader Shah seized the Persian throne in 1932 and then invaded Delhi (1739) and defeated a disorganised Mughal army. In teh aftermath, thanks to a rumour that Nader Shah was poisoned and killed the residents of Delhi apparently rebelled and killed some 3000 Persoan soldiers which drew Nader Shah's wrath. the next morning he began a systematic killing of citizens in Delhi and killed 30000. He did not stop until the Nizam of Deccan begged on his knees to stop and promised  a purse of 100 crore. Shah looted Delhi in the two months he was there, he took away the K  which was studded in the Peacock Throne (which cost thrice as much as the Taj Mahal to make) from Muhammad Shah along with a lot of Shah's wealth (and the Nizam Ul Mull's wealth). They say that Nader Shah found out that the K was taken out of the peacock throne and was in Muhammad Shah's turban and he made a gesture of exchanging turbans and thus got his hand son the K. The loot was taken away on 700 elephants, 4000 camels and 12000 horses. 

Nader Shah seems to have handed the K and the Timur Ruby to his chief Afghan body guard Ahmad Khan who seemed to have kept it in his possession for a hundred years (1713-1813). In between the Durrani's (Ahmad Shah Durrani) from Afghanistan raided Delhi and plundered it in 3 raids each more brutal than Nader Shah's raid, defeated the Marathas in Panipat and returned to Afghanistan. Shah's son Timur Shah took over after the death of his father and it was then that the British annexed the Shah Zaman empire. Ranjit Singh was then a feudal who was gaining ground with the British. 

Ranjit Singh the had his eyes on the K which was with the descendant of the Afghans Shuja Ul Mulk, who sought protection from Ranjit Singh. In exchange Ranjit Singh got the K which he kept with him on  his arm until 1939 when the British took it away from Duleep Singh. The K was with the Sikhs for 36 years. 

The K was taken under great security to Bombay  for transportation to England -  the ship had an outbreak of plague, then it encountered a severe storm and finally made it to the Queen who was rather lukewarm in her reception. Her husband Albert however ensured that the K was given prominence in the Great Exhibition and then, since it did not draw as much attention, got diamond cutters from Netherlands to work on it - they reduced its size by quite a bit in their efforts to make it more luminescent. 

Ranjit Singh had 17 wives (many of them committed Sati when he died). Though Ranjit Singh willed that the K be given to the Jagannath temple of Puri after his death, his wish was not followed and it remained with the Sikhs. His descendants (3 Maharajas and 2 crown princes and one dowager queen) died unnatural deaths until the 10 year old Duleep Singh was put on the throne, separated from his mother Jindan who was a wily and able ruler and send her off to a prison in the North.  

Duleep was placed in the care of an English couple, the Logins, who brought him up well. Duleep cut his hair, became anglicised, converted into Christianity, became a good friend of Queen Victoria and became as British as any. He met his mother Jindan who escaped from prison and was then incarcerated in Nepal. Jindan got to England and lived with her son until she died. Duleep became and alcoholic, married some random woman, troubled the British for money and his inheritance until he died. Queen Victoria died. Duleep died.

The K remains in the Tower of England along with the Peacock Throne. India, Pakistan, Afghanistan and others claim their ownership of the K which they say is unlucky for men and not so unlucky for women.    

Moonlight and Valentino - Movie

 1995.

Woman's (Elizabeth Perkins) husband dies when he goes out running and her support system consists of her younger sister (Paltrow), step mother (Kathleen Turner) and friend (Whoopie Goldberg). How they gte past her trauma is what the story is all about. Plus one painter boy in the form of Jon Bon Jovi.




Tuesday, February 18, 2025

Sri Krishna Tulabharam - movie

 1966.

NTR, Jamuna, Anjali Devi, Kanta Rao.

Krishna and Narada teach an arrogant Satyabhama that love must be tempered wtih humility and devotion. Beautiful sets and grand scale. Fabulous.



Monday, February 17, 2025

All We Imagine as Light - Movie

 2024.

Award winning and much acclaimed movie by Payal Kapadia (top five international films of 2024, two nominations at the Golden Globe awards) which shows India's reality or 'capturing the here and now of modern India' as someone said. Its the story of three nurses working in a hospital in Mumbai coping with their own problems - the young one with sexuality and freedom, the older one with a husband who is missing from her life, another one who loses her house to builders and relocates to her village in Ratnagiri. And somehow they all make peace with their hugely unsatisfying, small and hopeless lives living on a thin thread.



Narthanasala - Movie

 1963. 

Listed in the top 100 movies to watch in Indian films, its about the one year of Agnathavasam where the Pandavas had to spend their time undetected. NTR is brilliant as Bruhannala. Fabulous performances with SV Ranga Rao as Keechaka standing out as usual. 



Sunday, February 16, 2025

Yagnaseni - A Powerful Performance

 Aruna Bhikshu ma'am sent me an invite a day in advance for Yagnaseni, the Flame of Destiny, a thematic dance production based on a dramatic episode from the Mahabharata, and I decided I will go if I get a window. The invite said that it was presented by Nrutyavali Cultural Academy. The concept and choreography was by Shri M Surendra Nath and Dr Bijna Surendra Nath and it was at Pheonix Arena. What I found out on arrival there was that it was a mix of Kuchipudi, Kathakali, Mohiniyattam and Bharatanatyam.  Aruna Bhiskshu maam played Shakuni and was exceptional.

Aruna Bhikshu maam as Shakuni

Draupadi and Dussashana

Shakuni giving instructions to Dusshashana

Hapless Pandvas watching

The Kauravas plotting

Bheema slaying Dusshashana

It was every bit 'a visually compelling and spiritually evocative narrative' as they mentioned in the invite. The expressions were so vivid even from a distance and i was fully drawn into the performance and the way it was choreographed. The music was fabulous. 

Loved it. I would have paid to watch it and hope to watch it again if they perform again.


Saturday, February 15, 2025

Sights on my Morning Walk - Char Kaman, Khurshid Jah Devdi etc

Sunnie and I took off for an early morning paaya trip to Charminar (1591). Taher had suggested a hotel called Miskeen Hotel which was populated by only two people - so i am not sure if I should take Taher seriously on this recommendations (the paaya was not so great and I think was overpriced).

Charminar before dawn (pic courtesy Sunnie)

Hotel Miskeen

Anyway, first things first, we parked in the parking lot near Laad bazaar (the bazaar where one pampers) and walked all the way down to Shadab opposite which sat Miskeen.

Madina Hotel to the right - some inscription here 

The North kaman (Pic Sunnie)

Magnificent gate

Anyway Paaya done we walked back, past Madina Hotel, the bazaar with the stone buildings (apparently built during the reign of the 7th Nizam) which is called Pathergatti I think. The fountain on the middle of the road from which one can see the char kaman (which is called Gulzar Houz which I never knew). 

Pathergatti bazaar

The eastern kaman from Gulzar Houz

Eastern kaman

Sunrise behind Gulzar Sweets

From there we took a left turn and walked towards Purani Haveli where the HEH Nizam;s museum is. Sunnie wanted to see that place and we walked past the impressive kaman into the blood red sunrise, rising behind Gulzar Sweets. As we turned left at what is Mir Chowk (got the name thanks to the police station) we saw that the Hyderabad Metro work had begun on that  road and many houses and shops were begun to be demolished.

HEH Nizam's Museum and Purana Haveli


Down the road until we came to the Esin Girls School, turned right and saw the Durrushewar Hospital and then the lane that led to the Nizam's Museum or the Purani Haveli as it is called. The gate was open and there was a restraining tape put in just after the gate so we stood there and took a couple of pics when two security men arrived from either side. 'This is private property,' said one. 'Andar nahi aaa sakte.' 'Photo nahi le sakte,' said the other. I nodded and we stepped back out letting them enjoy an easy victory.



We walked back that road and in an inspired decision took a rickshaw to the Khurshid Jah devdi which has been on my mind for a while. Now we use to play league matches here in the ground before the devdi and in this ground no outside team would win a game. The ground was intact and a few cricketers were already at the job but the devdi was undergoing reconstruction. It has those massive Roman type columns as I remember and a lot of steps. 

Khurshid Jah devdi


Iqbal Ud Dowla devdi


We walked back and went to the nearby Iqbal-ud-Dowlah devdi which is another massive structure with a huge frontage and a lot of construction inside - there were people living inside so we decided not to go in.


Mosque at Mahbub Chowk

The clock tower at Mahbub Chowk (Pic Sunnie)

The walk back was past the Mahbub Chowk which was also being reconstructed, the beautiful mosque there and the clock tower. From there we hopped on to our car and headed back home - a good two hours later.

Very satisfying.