Hyderabad by Walk - Bonalu Walk at Hari Bowli

This was a walk organised by Tanya on the same day as the British Residency walk - a walk at Hari Bowli to watch the Bonalu celebrations. The Bonalu celebrations are celebrated across the twin cities starting with Golconda and traversing across to Secunderabad and the old city. Hari Bowli is where the Akkanna Madanna temple is, where the two ministers who served the last Qutb Shahi Sultan Abul Hasan Tana Shah would pray before commencing their day.

Akkanna Madanna temple

In light of the traffic restrictions it made sense to take the Metro to Imlibun Bus stand and then take an auto rickshaw to Hari Bowli. Once I got there I realised that there were large crowds and police barricades which were being removed once in a while to let out politicians who came to visit the temple.

A view of the crowd

One thing that was different with the Hari Bowli Bonalu was the fun the kids were having with the Potharajus. Every time a procession would come with a Potharaju, the kids, dresse din white kurta and pyjama would surround him or go near him, fearfully. Apparently to get hit by the Potharajus rope whip or to get him to spa his hand on your back is considered good luck. So they go close to him not knowing what he will do. Many wear those clothes with those marks with great pride.

Potharaju and his badges of luck

Another Potharaju

With all this happening, a huge bunch of young kids running around, the crowd surges and swells every now and then. The drum beats, the Potharaju's dance, the beautifully decked up ladies and their bonams, the decorated temples were a sight to see. Of course it could all just go out of control so we stepped to the side as the crowd swelled.

Thottelu

We crossed over past the Akkanna Madanna temple and waited near the Jagadamba temple. Tanya gave us a brief about the history of bonalu and how it is celebrated during the Ashada month as a feast (bonam derived from bhojanam which means feast) to thank the Goddess Mahakali (in the form of Yellamma) for fulfillment of their vows etc.

Maharaja Kishen Prasad deori

From the surging crowd we stepped into a side lane where the erstwhile deodi of Maharaja Kishen Pershad, who was twice the Prime Minister to the 6th and the 7th Nizams. The well read and much admired Prime Minister has his roots tracing back to Todar Mal, the finance Minister of Akbar. Kishen Prasad's grandfather was another Prime Minister, the feisty Chandu Lal. The once beautiful deodi is now converted into a hospital and most of its grand palaces and buildings are no more.

The old building entrance

The actual building inside

We walked into some other gullies, into small temples around and on the way out saw a cute old deodi and went in. It was a pretty old structure, quaint, character oozing out of every part of the house. Some one said that sixteen families lived in that little compound.

Entrance near the Jagadamba temple

The walking group

 Quite a heady experience. My wish of watching the bonalu festival and experience it to some extent was fulfilled too. And for granting that, I must thank Goddess Yellamma as well. Tanya as always carried cards, water, gave nice presentations and was generally the consummate professional that she is.