This was a first in all these years - ever since I got the idea of visiting and getting a vibe of the major festivals in India a couple of years ago, I have not really been to any. This year I decided to visit one of the Bonalu celebrations which are spread over a month in Hyderabad, Secunderabad. I enlisted the support of my old friend from Under 15 days, Chetan Joshi, who spent all his life in the Ramgopalpet area. He told me to come over by 2-3 and we could go and check it out.
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| Entrance to Ujjaini Mahankali temple from James Street |
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| A colorful group |
Since there were heavy traffic restrictions, I parked my car near Chetan's house and we went onward on his scooter. We parked across the road and walked over. The road was cordoned off and there were police all around from the James Street side. Entry seemed to be restricted to the other side so we walked around through a parallel street. As we walked we could see families carrying bonams - pots with rice, jaggery, curd and with neem leaves on top and a burning diya that is carried on the head. We finally walked all around and found a Q and joined it.
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| The chowrasta before the temple - temple to the right |
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| Bonams galore |
As we got closer to the temple and the chourasta near it, the queue got packed. Small processions of ladies carrying bonams were coming along with their own Potharajus and entourage, all colorfully dressed for the occassion. It was quite a sight, full of colour and fervour. We pushed along in the Q until we reached the temple and then turned back.
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| Entrance to the temple |
The history of bonalu and the Ujjaini Mahankali temple (1815) is something like this. In 1813 there was an epidemic of cholera in the city of Secunderabad and people were dying by the thousands. Away in Ujjain was a battalion of soldiers from Secunderabad serving the British. One doli bearer by name Suriti Appaiah and his associates went to the Mahakali Devasthanam at Ujjain and prayed for relief from the epidemic and promised to build a temple if the cholera receded. It did and they installed a wooden idol in July 1814-15.
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| The colorful entrance is that of the temple |
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| A young Potharaju |
As per the Ujjaini Mahakali Devasthanam temple website, a stone idol was found while constructing the temple and thus another idol, that of Goddess Manikyalamma was installed beside that of Mahankali Ammavaru.
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| A possessed lady |
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| TV reporters interviewing devotees |
The festival of Bonalu is centred on Makakali in the month of Ashada masam (July/August). Poojas are performed for Yellamma on the first and last day of the festival which is also considered a thanksgiving for fulfillment of vows. 'Bonam' they say is short for 'bhojanam' which translates to feast in Telugu. Rice is cooked with milk and jaggery in a new brass or earthen pot adorned with neem leaves, turmeric, vermilion and a lit lamp on the pot. Pots are carried on the head and offerings made with bangles and saris to the mother goddess. The regional forms of mother goddess are Maisamma, Pochamma, Yellamma, Peddamma, Dokkalamma, Ankalamma, Poleramma, Maremma and Nookalamma.
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| Potharaju |
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| Some more Potharajus |
The festival is celebrated on 1) the first Sunday of Ashadam at Jagadamba temple in Golconda fort 2) on the second Sunday at Balkampet, Ujjain Mahankali temple, Gandimaisamma temple, Regimental bazar and 3) on the third Sunday at Pochamma and Katta Maisamma, Chilkalguda, Lal Darwaza, Akkanna Madanna temple, Muthyalamma temple (old city).
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| Way out - can see the James Street Police Station Clock Tower behind |
We got some pictures of the Potharajus and the ladies carrying bonams, some seemingly possessed by the goddess. This apparently was a lean time Chetan said - if we came at night it would be more colourful but the crowd would be crazy. Next time surely.
We picked up the scooter and went to Paradise for a chai and samosa. Thanks Chetu. Was a wonderful experience.
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