Deccan Archives announced a Sufi walk so Vasu and I joined up. It was at 830 in the morning and the meeting place was Shah Khamosh dargah near Nampally. Being a little early we stopped at the interesting Diamond Cafe in front of Ek Minar and ate a khajur and drank chai.
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| Diamond Cafe |
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| Ek Minar Masjid, Nampally |
Shah Khamosh Dargah
Onward to Shah Khamosh dargah where we met Wahaj, Safwan from Deccan Archives and Ajay from the walks. And young Anirudh, who seemed to follow cricket a lot more actively than most (and my blog he said). It was nice to know that he knew I played in the 1986-87 season when we won the Ranji Trophy, that his Dad was at the Secunderabad Railway station when the winning Hyderabad team arrived after defeating Delhi in the finals etc. And the current scores of the team!
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| Shah Khamosh Dargah |
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| Another view |
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| The degh in front of the dargah |
Shah Khamosh was a Sufi saint who was born in Bidar as Syed Shah Moinuddin Hussaini more than 200 years ago in a family of Sadats (Prophet's Descendants). Legend goes that he had a spat with his peer and was asked to be silent and so he was - for two decades. And only when he was asked to speak did he speak again.
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| The saint's tomb |
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| Another view of the dargah |
The dargah is beautiful and very well maintained. We went in to see the tomb of the saint, the the Anglo Islamic architecture, the chandeliers, the interesting floors, the jannat ka darwaza. Its a place where one can sit in peace for a long time.
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| Amjad Hyderabadi's tomb in the enclosure |
Outside the dargah we visited a graveyard where the famous Hyderabadi poet Amjad Hyderabadi aka Syed Ahmed Hussaini lies. He saved his life from the devastating 1908 Musi flood by climbing the tamarind tree in the Osmania Medical Hospital which saved 150 lives (though he could not save his wife and daughter who got washed away in the flood). He wrote a poem about his experience - 'Qayamat-e-Soghra'.
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| The naqquar khana where they play the music everyday - only place in Hyderabad that plays |
While there we heard the naubat being played in the pavilion near the dargah which was played twice a day in the olden days - morning and evening.
Bargah Hazrath Syed Shah Nooruddin Qumair Quadri dargah
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| The entrance to the dargah |
We went down the road and went to the Bargah Hazrath Syed Shah Nooruddin Qumair Quadri dargah. There was the tomb of a saint outside - someone who had apparently cured alcoholism in the people somehow.
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| The inside entrance |
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| The marble enclosure for the tomb |
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| Another view |
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| Serene |
The tomb is in a marble structure which was originally open to sky apparently - like 4 pillars of a four poster bed - in the fashion of those days. Its a peaceful place too and houses the tombs of the VIIth Nizam's grand daughter and the tombs of three generations of saints.
Dargah Khittee Saliheen Hazra Habeeb Aidroos Al Aidroos
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| Entrance to the dargah |
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| Something very natural about this place |
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| The dargah |
From there we walked to the Dargah Khittee Saliheen Hazra Habeeb Aidroos Al Aidroos. This was a beautiful old fashioned structure, lots of greenery around, so much peace all around in the middle of the city.
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| Wooden enclosures for the tombs - with a pankah |
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| Tombs |
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| Another view |
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| Vasu in front of the dargah |
There is a connection to Major Idroos who was the Chief of Nizam's army when the Indian army took over the Nizam's state. during Operation Polo.
Darus Salam
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| Entrance of Darus Salam - from the inside |
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| The office - in the foreground |
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| Another impressive dargah - encroached and not maintained |
A short walk to Darus Salam, the head quarters of the AIMIM and the place where the infamous Kasim Razvi held office during his time. Huge grounds, a couple of colleges, a newspaper office to one side. End of walk and Vasu and me headed back to our car. Good job by Wahaj and Safwan and co as usual.
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