The Cochin Diaries - Day 5

Tharian headed off to work early and we got the cab by 8 as promised. Alleppey is a mere 60 kms from Kochi but it takes about two hours to get there thanks to some major road work going on.Once the four laning is done, Faasil, our able and helpful driver told us it will take only 45 minutes. He took some interior roads which was interesting because we could see some village life.

Alleppey and its waterways

Another view

Alleppey or Alappuzha is a city with a long history dating back to the Sangam Era in the first century. In the 16th and 17th century is became a hub for trading spices and a port was constructed and canals for transport laid throughout the city. With all its waterways and backwaters, it is often referred to as the Venice of the East. Alleppey is also one of the primary access points for the annual Nehru Trophy Boat Race which is conducted during Onam. They say that the church at Kokka Mangalam is one of the seven churches founded by St Thomas (one of the 12 disciples of Christ?) Christianity was prevalent in the area from the 1st century onwards.

Houseboats

A smaller waterways joining the bigger one

A jetty - little ones like bus stops

Canoe

Closer to Alleppey he pulled over and said we could check out spices and saris in a small spices and saris mall and we did. It's part of the deal and everyone befits from it - the cabbie, the shop guys and the customers who have to buy something anyway - so we did not complain. We headed off through some really narrow roads even as Faasil spoke to some houseboat and shikara guys and tied to set us up - I figured shikharas are smaller and take the smaller backwaters and shorter rides while houseboats are larger with a bedroom, a dining place and such other house-like conveniences and take us along for 5-6 hours into the larger waterway (and serve lunch). We decided on the houseboat experience and there it was - Ajay the pilot and Fayazuddin, the cook and helper.

Two paths - which one

The White Rose

Huge - Vembanad lake

After a welcome lime juice (surprise) we headed off. It was fascinating to see life around the waterways, each house by the bank with its own canoe, shops along the banks selling all sorts of stuff, even an Amul canoe selling ice cream on the water. Ajay offered to stop for a Ayurvedic massage (we declined), then offered king size prawns (we accepted, can't keep saying no all the time). 

Smoky

Bridge across...

Much smaller bridge

The waterways were full of houseboats of all sizes, from one room for small parties (like ours) to 40 room boats where people apparently conduct corporate conferences. At some point we emerged from the inner waterways and hit the massive Vembanad lake. 

Vembanad lake is the longest lake in India at 89.5 kms and spans three districts (and it is called Vembanad lake, Punnamada lake and Kochi lake at different places). The islands of Vypin and Willingdon are  located on the Kochi lake portion. 

Ajay docked to a coconut tree on one of the banks while Fayasuddin served us some great food - fish, prawns, chicken, dal too much to eat! 

And then the slow, soporific ride back. One could see activity by the banks - families sitting by the water, school children skipping by one the way home (one school girl wearing a track suit and striding home - an athlete), young kids playing by the water side, people fishing, tourists in speed boats, people using their canoes for their daily shopping needs, houses with well maintained gardens, rich houses, poor houses, people on houseboats - families, couples, all sorts, temples with loud speakers and prayers that stayed with us for a long stretch, until we slowly headed back.   

Well maintained garden

Kayaks on hire

It was almost 5 by the time we came back. I spent most of the time sitting next to Ajay and watching the water. Time flew and I was vaguely reminded of how I would sit on the deck of the Nancowrie, a ship that carried us from Madras to Port Blair, all day and gaze at the water during our college days.

Cute building

Faasil was waiting right where he had dropped us and we headed back. It was a tiring day and we all caught up after we went back. Sanjana and I walked down to the Crossword bookstore down the road which was a shop I wanted to check out from day one and got a few books.

Tomorrow the flight is at 130 so we would barely have time to get up, freshen up and leave by 1030.

Looking back, it was one hell of a hectic trip, a whirlwind outing. I sorely missed a beer with Tharian in a pub kind of atmosphere to relive our visits to Cafe Mondegar in Mumbai. But the flip side was getting to spend a lot of time with Marina and Sanjana and chatting about this and that. Much thanks is owed to them for hosting us, Marina mainly for handling us at home and for the lovely food and hospitality which she does in such an easy, organised manner, for the many conversations and for organising the Kumabalangi trip, Sanjana for being so patient and sporty and driving us around and coming along with us to all the places we wanted to go, playing the nicest music, keeping the spirits high with her laughter and sense of humour and for her honest conversations, Tharian for being what he is, big hearted, funny and just himself as always. I am so glad we did this.

And it would be wonderful if you all dropped in at Hyderabad so we could do a repeat, this time, Hyderabadi style.