Hyderabad by Walk - Ujjaini Mahakali Temple

Though Sunnie and I had walked down MG Road right up to Tank Bund, we did not turn into the General Bazar street where the famous Ujjaini Mahakali temple is. So the other day when Jyoti Shetty and I decided to walk about near Paradise we headed into that gully.

Mahatma Gandhi - MG Road

 

Art Deco

We started around 630 which I realise now is rather late in summer. Near James Street Police Station I found an interesting blue statue standing in front of an electric transformer and it was only later that I saw that it had a plaque beneath it. I could not make out what it was, but hopefully I will find out, soon. I also realise that there are many such statues of gods, kings, people all over the city.

The interesting statue

Anyway, we turned off near the James Street Police station and as is common, there is an impressive gateway to the road leading up to the temple. One sees that in most places - a colorful gateway with the main deity's idol along with other deities. We walked in and saw the temple from the outside. This is where the biggest celebration of Bonalu, the Hyderabadi festival happens.

Ujjain Mahakali gateway superimposed on James Street Police Station

Ujjain Mahakali temple

The building with the idols

The other gateway - check out the man praying from the road

The history of bonalu and the Ujjain Mahankali temple (1815) is something like this. In 1813 there was an epidemic of cholera in the city of Secunderabad and people were dying by the thousands. Away in Ujjain was a battalion of soldiers from Secunderabad serving the British. One doli bearer by name Suriti Appaiah and his associates went to the Mahakali Devasthanam at Ujjain and prayed for relief from the epidemic and promised to build a temple if the cholera receded. It did and they installed a wooden idol in July 1814-15.

The Nagelli Durgaiah Yadav Primary School

As per the Ujjain Mahakali Devasthanam temple website, a stone idol was found while constructing the temple and thus another idol, that of Goddess Manikyalamma was installed beside that of Mahankali Ammavaru.

Four interesting structures - the one on the right an old building, a small temple, a box like structure arising between the temple and the green wall of a mosque

The festival of Bonalu is centred on Makakali in the month of Ashada masam (July/August). Poojas are performed for Yellamma on the first and last day of the festival which is also considered a thanksgiving for fulfillment of vows. 'Bonam' they say is short for 'bhojanam' which translates to feast in Telugu. Rice is cooked with milk and jaggery in a new brass or earthen pot adorned with neem leaves, turmeric, vermilion and a lit lamp on the pot. Pots are carried on the head and offerings made with bangles and saris to the mother goddess. The regional forms of mother goddess are Maisamma, Pochamma, Yellamma, Peddamma, Dokkalamma, Ankalamma, Poleramma, Maremma and Nookalamma.

The festival is celebrated on 1) the first Sunday of Ashadam at Jagadamba temple in Golconda fort 2) on the second Sunday at Balkampet, Ujjaini Mahankali temple, Gandimaisamma temple, Regimentall bazar and 3) on the third Sunday at Pochamma and Katta Maisamma, Chilkalguda, Lal Darwaza, Akkanna Madanna temple, Muthyalamma temple (old city).

I hope to visit these places this coming Bonalu.

Opposite the temple was a building which had many idols. I wonder what the story of that building nd the idols is. I also found a very well maintained government school with the name of Nagelli Durgaiah Yadav Primary School on it - a house donated by him perhaps - the symbol of the three lions on top, the Indian flag, well maintained plants and stuff.

Another gateway on the other side, some art deco buildings, Mahboob College and we turned off towards Paradise for a spot of breakfast.