Hyderabad by Walk - Qutb Shahi Tombs

Deccan Archives has a slew of interesting walks this month and though i have been to the Qutb Shahi tombs before I decided to join. It was an evening walk, the place is one of my fav places in Hyderabad, and Sibgat always has an interesting perspective when he leads these walks. 

Hayath Baksh Begum's tomb

We met up at 4ish and waited for some other to join. Safwan was missing but Wahaj was there and soon Sibgat joined. Two familiar faces from earlier walks, a family of Malayalis - three, one solo lady who is also a regular I think, one new gentleman and two young ladies who came by themselves and with me that was ten in all. 

Another perspective

We went straight to the Hayath Baksh Begum tomb which is the first one we see to the right - a very impressive structure. Hayath Baksh Begum was the daughter of the most popular Sultan Mohammad Quli Qutb Shah, the fifth Sultan who established Hyderabad city. Also known as Ma Saheba, Hayath Baksh Begum was the daughter, wife and mother of three powerful Sultans and was known for her diplomacy, courage and administrative acumen.

From one side

Aurangzeb's mosque

Original Qutb Shahi mosque

The point of interest was however a small mosque which is to the left of the tomb, as you face it. Apparently when Aurangzeb conquered Golconda he refused to pray at the mosque behind the tomb which was the biggest one in the necropolis because he found some shapes like a squirrel and had this new one built in 24 hours and prayed there. 

Another view of the original mosque

We then went to search for the squirrel shaped motif in the mosque and could not find it until Sibgat pointed it to us. Interestingly the floor of the mosque was dug up which I presumed was for renovation but apparently its been that way because the Moghuls dug up the floor to search for treasures.

Mohammad Qutb Shah - sixth Sultan's tomb

Tana Shah's unfinished tomb

A touch of the sky from Tana Shah's tomb - apt for his free spirit

We then walked past the tomb where he showed some original tiles on the minarets. We looked at the tiles on the tomb of Mohammad Qutb Shah, husband of Hayath Baksh Begum, which is very different from the rest with its green dome. 

Mohammad Quli Qutb Shah's tomb - fifth Sultan and founder of Hyderabad

Golconda to the left behind

We walked to the unfinished tomb of the last Sultan Tana Shah or Abul Hasan who ruled for 14 years before being captured by the Moghuls and sent to Daulatabad where he passed away after 14 years. Tana Shah was a colourful character and had spent much of his childhood with the Sufi saint Raju Qattal and his ways were different. His two ministers Akkanna, Madanna held important positions and so did many Hindus - one of the grievances that the Muslims had against the ruler. Akkanna, Madanna were beheaded and their heads sent to Aurangzeb before the fall of Golconda.

The step well

Tombs of the first Sultan Quli Qutb Shah and others

Sibgat and heritage walkers

From there we walked to the Serai or Hammam which Sibgat said was the oldest part of the necropolis and where travelers from Surat to Masulipatnam would rest (and avail of free massages sponsored by the Sultan). We walked behind the Serai and saw a step well which was full of water. Behind the step well was part of the mud wall that was originally built.

Emerald dome

A tomb

From there to the place where Mohammad Quli's tomb is and from where the tombs of first Sultan Quli Qutb Shah, his son Jamshed, his grandson Subhan can be seen. Also can see some ugly structures coming up behind which is a shame. By now the guards were actively telling us to leave - it was 530 and we started heading back.

As always, an enjoyable, learning experience.