The Jammu Diaries - Vaishnodevi Yatra

I am not sure if what we undertook could be called as Vaishnodevi yatra but we did go to the shrine and walked the way down. We had an extra day and I thought we could give it a shot - Katra, the base town from where the trek to Vaishnodevi shribe begins, was 60 kms away from Jammu and from what I read and gathered form people it was a 3-4 hour trek up and equally down - its 13 kms one way. It would be taxing surely but lets see I thought. I sent out word and soon a company of six plus me (all of them much younger and fitter than I) gathered. Two cars were arranged and we set out at 2 pm.

First glimpse of the Trikuta mountains and the Vaishnodevi trek

Now, the precursor. I tried to get tickets for the evening but did not get tickets which led to the plan. The girls from room service told our kids that there was a helicopter service which they would try to get us on to at a price of 2300 per person one way if we made it to Katra. And they said it was worth it etc etc and soon things fell into place. Even the cab guys came at short notice. What I mean to say was - things fell into place.

Another one - from Katra

Anyway, off we went at 2 pm and reached Katra by about 4ish. We went to the place where we get the helicopter booking and bought tickets - now the round trip from Katra to Vaishnodevi is some 4500 bucks. However the copters do not take off after 5 pm. On good days, weather being good, if one takes a morning chopper up and an evening chopper down, one can do both ways. We had the option of only one. 

Off the helipad - pony rides for those who want

Walking - lots of monkeys around

Anyway we bought tickets and rushed to the place where they weighed us, gave us some ids and stuff and packed us into their cars. Then to the helipad where we were checked once again like in an airport and were asked to wait in line. Choppers kept coming in and out and people were quickly helped out and helped in and off they went again. There were six of us if I remember - two next to the pilot and four at the back. We took off minus the seat belt, the copter swung this way and that, looked like it would run into the mountain wall and swerved and some 5-7 minutes later we landed on a small helipad on the mountain side. First time in the chopper for me (and the rest!)

Helipad

Helipad

We got off the chopper and the boys said it was a 30 minute walk and we started walking. Right outside the helipad we find people trying to sell pony rides (can travel on pony) or palki rides (men carry you in a palki). We chose to walk. Maybe it took us about 30-40 minutes and we saw what they call the Bhawan - a huge complex. Later I realised this was where the main shrine is. There is another temple on top of the hill called Bhaironnath mandir and they say the yatra is not complete if you do not visit both (we did not so I rest my case).

Nescafe and burger stop

Destination Bhawan

Anyway we walked in and walked past Durga Bhawan which is where there is some information available. The complex was so confusing that we asked many people and stopped at this lovely Ram temple. We were told that darshan was shut and we had to wait till 8, a good 2 hours away. Then someone found out that we could buy some tickets for 2000 bucks a head and go in for arti and satsang. We walked in and lo behold, we found that we had divine help!

Another view of Bhawan

One lady called us aside and said she had four tickets and three of her family members did not come and she would sell those tickets to us at 1200 bucks. We took the offer, bought four tickets at 2000 bucks and followed. She apparently visits every month from Delhi and knew the place like the back of her hand. She took us right in, to the place where we put our mobiles away, our footwear away, and got us good places to sit and we sat right in front and watched the satsang (she knew every sloka) and watched the arti. The room was filled with devotees clapping, immersed in their faith. Clearly everyone had a deep connection.

Ram Mandir

After arti she quickly guided us to the main shrine for darshan. It is in a cave like place and there are three pindis, stone symbols, each with a distinct color and texture originating from the same source. The guard told us that the middle pindi was Vaishnodevi and the other two were Mahalakshmi and Maha Saraswati. Darshan done we headed out into the cold night at nine pm.

The path at twilight

Bhawan at night on way back

The mountains are called Trikuta mountains. Vaishnodevi is one of he holiest of the Hindu pilgrimages and they say a crore visit every year. They say Arjuna meditated here before the war.

Bhawan - lights 

Vaishnodevi, Goddess Shakti, was a devotee of Lord Vishnu who decided to never get married. One Bhaironnath pursued her and she beheaded him and the place where his head fell is where the Bhaironnath temple is today. Midway up the hills is what is called Ardhkuwari temple.

Palki bearers carrying a pilgrim

We grabbed some dinner and started back. The pathway is wide and well laid out and one can walk at an easy pace (way down, I am sure way up is strenuous). There are pony rides on offer at 400-600 bucks a head, palkis where four men carry you in a basket like thing at a pretty rapid pace, some pram like structures for adults to sit and be taken along, even battery operated cars which operate past 10 in the night and need to be booked.

Photo studio on way down

We walked halfway and our driver started calling. From the Ardhkuwari temple we started taking the steps to gain time. It got to my calves and legs and it was with a quivering gait that I finally managed to reach Ban Ganga which was where we were to meet. Some nice lemon sodas on the helped me along as did a nice conversation with a friend who called quite fortuitously and stayed with me on the later and more difficult part of the walk. Thanks pal.

There were people climbing up at 11 am, young kids who were probably 6-7 years old, families, young couples, old people. Amazingly so many of them were using the steps (I was finding it difficult to walk down). Many used the trekking sticks - I wish I found one. Another feature is that there are many monkeys along the way - but they mind their own business mostly (though they snatched one man's bag - perhaps with food). 

The cab arrived and we headed back. An hour and a half later we were back at the hotel by 1 am. Tired, but very satisfied. Quite an experience.