Dr. Neeraj Raj's Exhibition

Dr. Neeraj Raj is a medical doctor (gold medalist and topper), painter, singer, poet, sketcher, animator, cartoonist and mostly someone with immense creative energy which he pours into anything that catches his fancy. I had this wonderful experience of working with him on Sridhar's book, for which he came up with a stunning cover, besides putting me in touch with everyone who could help me with getting material for the book. He has this subtle sense of humour, a rare groundedness, the capacity to be in the moment and make everyone feel important. If there's anything I regret it is not meeting him often enough after Sridhar's book project got done.

Portraits 

Dr Hari Prasad

Dr MV Sridhar

So when I saw a cute invite from him inviting me to an exhibition of his works at their family's ancestral home near RBI, I signed up mentally. I went early, realised parking was an issue, parked in Public Gardens and walked back. 

Water colours

Purdah Gate

Some of the crowd

The place was tastefully done up and many of his works were displayed - people's portraits that he had sketched (I could recognise a few - notably Hari Prasad and Sridhar). There was a group of Urban Sketchers who were also at the job sketching away - from the terrace of the house right up the hill! There was samosa and chai and there were friends and family in abundance. I met quite a few common friends as I browsed through his work. Excellent vibe.

A subtle sense of humour, an openness

His journey

Neeraj studied at HPS, where his short bio that was displayed in a few collages, said that he won the first prize at the Inter school competitions for painting. He started creating cartoons which were published in newspapers such as Indian Express and Deccan Chronicle among others (created a character called Dr Golmalkar. Met top cartoonists like Mario and Sudhir Dar at the World Humour Conference. At Osmania Medical school he painted his answers in water colours and secured gold medals in Anatomy and Pathology and topped medicine. He combined his study of medicine with his love for creation and took off on a career in medical illustration in Computer Graphics and 3D Animation to illustrate medicine. He writes nonsense poetry, jams on 3 line poetry, mentors a group of Urban Sketchers, sings songs and  generally lives life to the fullest.

Many of his friends and family - immensely likeable and popular

View from the top

We met briefly and we made that all too familiar promise - must meet soon. Hopefully before the next exhibition. The experience - I loved it. Just being there in that crowd, seeing those cartoons, soaking in the vibes of an era gone by (Neeraj somehow brings out that era in us when everything was simple, fun and in many ways, intelligent). Lovely.         

Hyderabad by Walk - Mahbub Mansion

 Our last stop for the morning was Mahbub Mansion which was built in the 19th century by the 6th Nizam Mahbub Ali Khan. He would visit the mansion occasionally from his permanent residence in Purani Haveli. There are similarities in this structure and the eastern blocks of Mubarak Mansion of Nazri Bagh or the King Kothi palace they say.

The grand entrance

Security cabins?

Spice market

One other story is that one of the Nizam's consorts Sardar Begum enjoyed watching horse racing at the Malakpet Race Course (which was built during Mahbub Ali Khan's time) from the palace windows. The story is that the curtain from which she watched had gold threads so no one could see the Queen on all the glittering light.

The Mahbub Mansion

The entrance to the mansion

Another view of the entrance

The entrance to the Mahbub Mansion area had a beautiful arch which was quite imposing. Luckily our people let the arches survive for some reason. There are two little security posts on both sides and that is where all similarity to the grand idea of Mahbub Mansion ends. the roads lead to the right and left - to the right is the spices market of Osman Gunj which was shifted here in 1983 which meant there were lorries and mini vans etc and lots of shops. 

The collapsed part - rains

We walked around and came to the dilapidated mansion which must have been a magnificent structure in its hey day. The entire land has been occupied and thanks to some last ditch effort the bare bones of the structure are protected by the flimsiest of fencing. Everything is gone, doors, windows, and its is stripped of all dignity. Garbage is all over, so bad that you cannot step anywhere close. Buildings and residential places are right next to the mansion.

Best protection for heritage stuff - garbage

If you thought that was a lot of garbage, think again

We saw a couple of chaps sitting and chatting over their morning teeth brushing activity and they told us what we could see - people took every single door and window and not knowing their value - used it as firewood. Only during CM Rosiah's time did they construct that fencing and it could be saved to this extent.

The exit - looks good - ending fine

I could well imagine how the place could be done up for some serious heritage tourism.

Seriously depressed Vardha and I went to a nice Udipi restaurant (Raghavendra?) and had some really nice idli and vada and dosa and polished it off with a cup of chai and headed homeward. Mission accomplished.       

Hyderabad by Walk - Asman Garh Palace

Not too far from the Raymond's Tomb is the Asman Garh Palace (Palace in the Sky) which was built in 1885 by Asman Jah of the Paigah family who served as the Prime Minister to the Hyderabad State. The palace is a small one but attractive enough because it had lovely views, being located on a high point (close to the sky). The Nizam liked staying over and the Paigah noble gave it to him - (as they did the Falaknuma Palace).

Part of the Aman Garh palace - the villa that stands

The 7th Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan had an arched gateway built in the shape of the royal dastar (headgear) which still stands.

The dastar shaped arched gateway - and Mr Security doing his job

The building was then used as a museum by the Birla Museum and then as an orphanage before being taken over by the St Joseph's Public School. There are rumours of there being a secret tunnel from this palace to Golconda which must be a long tunnel. One would think that there is a secret world of tunnels under this city.

View of the villa from the side

Interestingly Moin-Ud-Dowla, the only son of Asman Jah, was a keen sportsman and it was he who had donated the famous All India Moin-Ud-Dowla Gold Cup, a tournament which drew the best of cricketing talent to Hyderabad, including foreign cricketers. We had tournaments named after Kishen Pershad ( a one day HCA tournament), Behram Ud-Dowla ( a 3 day HCA tournament) and surely some more named after these patrons.

Apparently declared as a heritage structure, a part of the building was demolished by the school to construct a new wing. Wonder what happened to the heritage status.

A view from afar - the school building visible through the gate

When Vardha and I tried to go in, the sharp security man ran after us saying this far and no more. Then he had a problem with photographs. The old building looked good. The new school building of course must have served the school's purpose but fades in characters before the old villa.

Amazing what we do to our heritage structures.   

Hyderabad by Walk - Raymond's Tomb

Vardha and I decided it was too long to walk to Raymond's tomb at Malakpet and took my car and went in search. It was on top of a hillock, what they call Tirumala hills.The gates were firmly shut and I wondered if we had to come back again some other time. Vardha was made of more adventurous stuff and he headed out to the gate, summoned the watchman who opened the gate without a fuss and led us inside. It was quite well maintained thanks to some recent restoration work - but needs better upkeep.

Entrance

Smaller tomb and obelisk for dear ones

Vardha checking out the first tomb

To the right was a pavilion - a small tomb - with the name of a woman and that of an infant. Perhaps Monsieur Raymond's wife or daughter we presumed. The watchman said the pavilion was for his horse - we did not get more of of it. 

Steps leading to Raymond's tomb

The obelisk

Initials  JR - Joachim Raymond

Then we walked on higher to the main tomb which had a huge obelisk and a pavilion. Monsieur Raymond was a much loved, popular French General in the employ of the 2nd Nizam and was known to the Muslims as Musa Rahim and to the Hindus as Musa Ram. There is an area named after him called the Musaram bagh. People still go to pray at his tomb. For someone who died in 1798, it is something to be remembered even now  - we saw some candles at his tomb even when we went.

The pavilion constructed by the Nizam

Remnants of candles

Michel Joachim Marie Raymond, son of a shop keeper, left France at the age of 20 in 1775 with his younger brother with the idea of opening a shop in Pondicherry. When the British took over Madras he moved to Mysore and joined the army of Hyder Ali. After serving there for a period he joined the 2nd Nizam's army in Hyderabad state as a soldier and soon grew up the ranks, starting with 200 soldiers under him and then more. This was the time when the Hyderabad state also entered into the Subsidiary Alliance with the British which gave the British rights to protect the state.

  

Dramatic view of the pavilion against the sunrise

As Amin Junsi or Comptroller of Ordnance he was responsible for establishing factories producing cannonballs and cannons, guns, ammunition and such. The Gunfoundry at Abids was one such factory he established. When he died in 1798 he was commanding the French Troops, numbering 14000 and it was a sight to see in the annual langar processions apparently.  His death remains a mystery they say. Not surprisingly the French Troops were disbanded the same year.

 

Another view

And another

Being a kind, brave man he was much loved by the common public. The Nizam built the pavilion in his honour and on his anniversary people would flock to pay respects. On his anniversary the Nizams would send a bottle of beer and a box of cheroots which one can presume he enjoyed.

What one cannot get over is the love and faith he commands from the common public. We could see the candles at the tomb stones which meant that people still prayed. While walking around the tomb area we also found some beer bottles which some unsuspecting soul must have consumed little knowing the Monsieur Raymond would have approved.

There are nice walkways around the tomb area where people can sit and watch nice views of the city. The garden is not very well kept. There are houses abutting the area so there are people throwing garbage into this area. Overall the design and restoration was done well and if maintained well, can really attract more people.           

Hyderabad by Walk - Saroornagar Palace aka Victoria Memorial Home

So I called my old pal Vardha a couple of weeks ago and asked if he would accompany me for some explorations in his part of town. He was most willing and we scheduled to meet at the Victoria Memorial Home which was the erstwhile Saroornagar Palace at 6 am. Vardha was there by the time I reached the place. There were many bikes and cars parked - Vardha told me that it was a popular place for morning walkers.

Victoria Memorial Home aka Saroornagar Palace

We walked into a large area, apparently 70 acres of it, full of old trees, reasonably decent maintenance. Originally built as a hunting lodge for the 6th Nizam Mahbub Ali Khan, the Saroornagar Palace was completed in 1903. 

A closer look

Check out the boys at the gates

However it was never occupied as the Nizam fell ill after he visited the palace which was under construction and being a superstitious person, he abandoned all plans of using it. In fact quite a few great structures in the city - Saifabad Palace for one, Irrum Numa another - seem to have been abandoned on such superstitions. The palace lay deserted until 1904 when Queen Victoria passed away and the British Resident asked the Nizam to dedicate an institute in her memory. The Nizam converted the empty palace into the Victoria Memorial Orphanage (which was changed to Home on Nehru's suggestion) and so it has been since.

The reception area with a portrait of the 6th Nizam Mahbub Ali Khan

We walked in and tried to go around it to the right when the sharp whistle of a security man stopped us - he told us that all the action was to the left and there was nothing to the right except quarters and hostels for the girls. We retraced our steps and walked towards the front of the building through trees and paths, past people exercising, chatting with one another post exercises, doing yoga, cycling etc - until we came to the front of the building.

Inner courtyard - boy's hostels perhaps

It's a huge, imposing palace, two storied, a mosque to its left, a large ground in front of it for children to play all sorts of games - football to cricket to athletics etc. Many young athletes were training and many older people walking the fringe of the ground. The palace was an awesome sight and I was glad that the move to convert part of the palace grounds into some government department a few years ago was foiled and it was left alone. There were boys from the home looking out from behind closed shutters and in time it opened,

Notice board

Library

Vardha said we could try to walk in and see the inside. I followed him and we walked in much to the amusement of the young kids who were studying in the high ceilinged halls. There was a hall right up there with a photo pf the 6th Nizam Mahbub Ali Khan, the reception area, a library to the right. As we walked in we found a huge hall where the boys were studying, doing their school work. To the left were huge halls that seemed to serve as dormitories. We walked past it into the back yard where there was an open courtyard with a building behind it, classrooms on top and all around.

Balconies

View from the entrance we came in from

By this time the two male teachers in charge who were following us grew suspicious enough and came up and asked us not to take pictures without getting permission from the Principal. I asked them who they were and they said they were the Vice Principal and a teacher. We got chatting and the VP told me there were 900 kids, almost all of them passed the SSC, there were girls as well as boys and they were fully taken care of. I saw a board with the curriculum written on it in neat handwriting and showed it to Vardha - neat handwriting, no spelling mistakes (I know of Post Graduates who cannot write a single sentence without spelling mistakes). It did seem that the school was in good, caring hands and I told the VP that I would be happy to come and do a motivational session for the senior kids when school restarts. He was quite happy at the idea.

It felt good to be there, to see good work. I asked a kid who the picture on the wall was and he said 'raju'. I wondered if the kids even realised what kind of a luxury they were living in - the palatial building, the huge open grounds, trees - things that the best of schools do not have these days.

We headed out of the palace. Put to good use and well preserved. Glad. I will come back here again for a session in June/July.

...

Not far from the palace Vardha took me to an interesting place - The Greater Hyderabad Shelter for the Homeless. It was an interesting building - round shaped, in the middle of the centre. Homeless people come and sleep at night apparently. Two cannons were placed on either side. Wonder what the story about the building is. 

The Shelter for the Homeless - a red cannon pointing at us

The cannon at the back side

A bust of Chakali Ilamma

Chakali Ilamma is a legendary figure, a revolutionary who participated in the Telangana Armed rebellion (1940-1947) and revolted against the Telangana landlord Ramachandra Reddy known as  Visnoor Deshmukh and took back control of her lands. She was politically active and was part of the Communist Party and the Andhra Mahasabha. The Women's College in Koti (previously the British Resident's house) is named Veernari Chakali Ilamma University for Women after her. Certainly one can take a leaf or two from her book.