Hyderabad by Walk - Telangana State Archaeology Museum

I made it part of this series since I walked from the parking lot to the museum. After four attempts, I finally made it to the Telangana State Archaeological Museum which is located inside the Public Gardens. 

The Telangana State Archaeological Museum
 

What I thought would get done in half an hour to an hour, took me more than two hours and I was not even done. I need to go back there to complete it.

Contents

The contents of the museum as displayed - Open Air Galleries (Cannon gallery, Brahmanical Sculptural gallery. Kakatiya mandapa, Wooden chariot, Vijayanagara Mandapa), Main Block, Inscriptions gallery, Holy Relic gallery, Buddhist sculptures gallery, Ajanta frescoes gallery, Devi gallery) and the Jain Inscriptions Block.

Welcome cannons

Some interesting inscriptions on the cannon

Pooja was equally keen on seeing the museum which helped because Prarthana dropped out after the last visit when everything was shut thanks to Ambedkar Jayanthi. Entry ticket was bought after much calculation by the ticket seller and a bunch of formalities undertaken - like telling very single person out there whether we bought the tickets until I lost it and told them off.

The howdah to sit on an elephant

Egyptian Mummy of Princess Naishu

Valley of the Nile

How the Mummy came to Hyderabad

The Telangana State Archaeological Museum was established in 1931 - the building funded by the seventh Nizam Mir Osman Ali Khan. Prior to that it was located in the Town Hall (the current State Assembly). Now the idea of having a Department of Archaeology came up when one Henry Cousens carried out archaeological explorations in the area. The need for a Department was felt and so it was established in 1914 - and thus the museum came into being.

Bronze statue

A temple bell with beautiful sculptures on all four sides

Nataraja

The building itself is a beautiful one, almost a hundred years old, and has cannons placed outside it with some markings. The ticket counter is to the right and we take the stairs and climb up. Behind the ticket counter is a howdah, the ones they place of elephants to ride. We walked up and headed straight into the prime attraction in the museum - the Egyptian mummy. One of the six Egyptian mummies in India (the others being in Lucknow, Vadodara, Mumbai, Jaipur and Kolkata), the Mummy was brought for a paltry 1000 pounds by Naseer Nawaz Jung, son-in-law of the 6th Nizam and gifted to the 7th Nizam in 1930. The Nizam donated it to the Museum and here it lies, almost a century later. The Mummy is that of Egyptian Princess Naishu. Why they were selling Mummies I am not sure though but the Princess is taken care of well here. There is much literature about the funerary practices of the Egyptians, the general map of Egypt (the pyramids are to one corner and so on).

The second building

Beautiful arched doorways

Wooden chariot

Kakatiya mandapam

We got out of the Egyptian room and went to our right where there was the bronze gallery with many wonderful idols dating back to the 10th century and some even before that. The story of how Krishna Devaraya visited all the major temples in Andhra - Srisailam, Tirupati, Srikakulam etc is depicted. The attendants were reluctant to put on the lights so we put them on ourselves.

Ajanta gallery

Copies of frescoes

We came back and went the other side where the Decorative Arts Gallery was - Bidri ware, Chinese pottery, and stuff.

We went back down the stairs and went into the open space behind the first building. To our right was a magnificent wooden chariot, perhaps used in a temple, and to the left a wonderful Kakatiya mandapam. We went into the second building which was more spacious. To the left was a Buddhist shrine where a couple of people were meditating. To the right was a hall with many artifacts. One of the attendants was sitting on one artifact and watching Whatsapp videos. I forgot to take a picture of her. 

 

In the first floor was a room full of Ajanta frescoes. Apparently the seventh Nizam had a big role to play in the preservation of the Ajanta cave frescoes. He sent the Director of Archaeology Mr Ghulam Yazdani to photograph them (the first person to do so apparently) and compile a document, hired Italian restorers to conserve the paintings and even commissioned two artists Khan Bahadur Syed Ahmed and Mohammed Jalaluddin in 1949 to make copies (life size I think) of the Ajanta frescoes for display. These copies are displayed here. Apparently the Ajanta paintings were accidentally discovered by British soldiers in 1819 and they were found to be invaluable 1st and 2nd century and 6th and 7th century works.

We went out behind the second building where a whole bunch of cannons were placed in an open yard. The wall abuts the Public Garden road opposite Control Room. To the left were more rooms - with Jain artifacts and others which we did not have time to see and we made it back.

A peek into the real world

There were two other visitors - one of them was a lone foreigner - other than us. Definitely worth a visit and definitely worth making it more customer friendly. Definitely worth a visit.   

       

Hyderabad by Walk - Seven Tombs or the Qutb Shahi Tombs

Quite by chance we ended up going to the Qutb Shahi tombs - seven tombs they call it but there are way more because the Qutb Shah Sultans numbered eight (one is half built so seven is right in a way). Prarthana wanted Anjali to pose for a photo shoot and we were searching for good spots and suddenly the weather turned cloudy. The Qutb Shahi tombs are a pretty sight so we decided to go there.

For starters it has been done up beautifully by the Aga Khan Foundation I think. The pathways are organised, the signage clear and appropriate, the landscaping and lawns in place, overall an excellent experience unlike the slightly uncared for look it had for earlier. We parked and as we got out of the car one guide called Mateen attached himself to us unsolicited and after a while disengaged. Pooja and I went ahead exploring the tombs while Prarthana got busy with her photo shoot.

The Seven tombs belong to the seven rulers of the Qutb Shah dynasty which ruled from 1518-1687 with Golconda as their capital initially and then Hyderabad. It was they who founded Hyderabad with Charminar as its centre. In their reign the kingdom extended all the way up to Srikakulam and went below Nellore. They were Shia Muslims of Turkoman origin. 

The founder of Qutb Shah dynasty, Sultan Quli Qutb Ul Mulk, the founder of the dynasty hailed from Hamadan in Iran. He travelled to Delhi with his uncle and then came down to the Deccan to be in the employ of the Bahmani kings. When the Bahmani kingdom broke up, he was the last to break away and form the Golconda kingdom - the other four Sultanates being Bijapur (Adil Shahi), Ahmadnagar (Nizam Shahi), Bidar  (Barid Shahi) and Berar (Imad Shahi). The Sultans of the Qutb Shahi dynasty were known as the Telugu Sultans during their later years because they elevated Telugu on par with Persian in their dealings, were patrons of art. 

Heritage Park Plan

The eight rulers being Quli Qutb Shah or Quli Qutb Ul Mulk (1518-1543), followed by his son Jamsheed Quli Qutb Shah (1543-1550), followed by his son Subhan Quli Qutb Shah (1550-1550), followed by Jamsheed's brother Ibrahim Qutb Shah Wali (1550-1580), followed by his son Mohammad Quli Qutb Shah (1580-1612), followed by his nephew and son-in-law Mohammed Qutb Shah (1612-1626), followed by his son Abdullah Qutb Shah (1626-1672) followed by his son-in-law Abul Hasan Qutb Shah (1672-87). The last king was captured by Aurangazeb and imprisoned in Daulatabad where he died.    

We started with the tomb of Abdullah Qutb Shah the sixth Qutb Shahi ruler (1625-1672) that appears right up front. Abdullah Qutb Shah was a polyglot, enjoyed poetry and music and patronised arts (he supposedly invited the famous musician Kshetrayya to his court). His Wazir was Mir Jumla and it was during his time that Aurangazeb, under command from Shah Jahan laid seige to Golconda and walked off with a rich tribute, softened only by the marriage of Abdullah's daughter with Aurangazeb's son (which they thought would lead to accession of the Mughals to Golconda). Abdullah also had to deal with the Marathas who, under Shivaji had captured Bijapur and were a constant threat.    

Tomb of Abdullah Qutb Shah (7th Sultan)

Then we went left to the half done one of Abul Hasan Qutb Shah aka Tana Shah the seventh ruler with whom ended the dynasty after his defeat to the Mughals (1672-1687). Tana Shah, the son-in-law of the seventh ruler Abdullah, was an inclusive ruler who employed many Hindus in his government. His Ministers Akkanna and Madanna were in charge of the treasury and revenue. Unhappy with the growing influence of Hindus some nobles complained to Aurangazeb and the Mughal army came and defeated the Qutb Shah army, beheaded the two Hindu Ministers and captured Tana Shah. Since he was captured mid-term, his tomb remained unfinished.

Half finished tomb of Abul Hasan Tana Shah (8th Sultan)

Then went past tombs of generals and hakims, the badi bauli (step well). 

Tombs of General and Hakim

Step well

We came upon the tomb of Sultan Mohammad Quli Qutb Shah (5th Sultan - 1580-1611), the most magnificent tomb of them all. Mohammad Quli Qutb Shah is known as the founder of Hyderabad, and it was he who planned the city of Hyderabad with Charminar at its centre owing to the overcrowding of Golconda. He was made Sultan at 15 and ruled for 31 years. The DarulShifa, Mecca masjid, Badshahi Ashurkhana were all begun and built in his time. He was an accomplished poet and his works are in several languages - Telugu, Persian, Urdu. Mir Momin was his physician and there is the Mir Momin Daira in the old city which I need to find out more about.

The most famous tale about Mohammad Quli Qutb Shah is that of his love for Bhagmati who he would go to meet everyday from the Golconda fort to Hyderabad. The city they say was named as Bhagyanagar after her and when he married her, her name was changed to Hyder Mahal which is why Hyderabad got its name. However there is no picture of Bhagmati nor a tomb whereas Taramati and Premamati the two artists and singers and dancers have their tombs in the necropolis. 

Tomb of 5th Sultan Mohammed Quli Qutb Shah
 

The one who had Charminar built and the one who is the founder of Hyderabad city around Charminar.

Then, slightly to the left and behind the tomb of Mohammad Quli Qutb Shah lies the tomb of his father Ibrahim Qutb Shah (4th Sultan - 1550-1580). Ibrahim, the son of Sultan Quli Qutb Mulk, founder of the dynasty and brother of Jamsheed who allegedly assassinated his father and blinded his older brother to become king, escaped Jamsheed's wrath and lived as a royal guest at the Vijayanagara empire as Rama Raya's guest for seven years. There he married a Hindu lady called Bhagirathi. When Jamsheed died in 1950, his seven year old son Subhan was made king for a while before Ibrahim was asked to come and take over the kingdom.

Ibrahim was the first to use the title of Sultan and he loved the Telugu language so much that he would write Telugu literature under a Telugu name 'Malki BhaRama', and loved listening to the Mahabharata recited in Telugu. Ibrahim was the one who constructed the Hussain Sagar and Ibrahim Bagh. Mohammad Quli Qutb Shah was his only son and they say it was he who had the Purana Pul built for his son to make crossing the Musi easier to meet Bhagmati.   

Tomb of Ibrahim Quli Qutb Shah - 4th Sultan

As we turn back we see a structure that is very different from the others - more like a tower, with two stories. This Sultan stands out in other ways, being the only one accused of fratricide to claim the throne. Jamsheed Quli Qutb Shah (2nd Sultan - 1543-1550) was known as a cruel man and not much is known about him though another account says that he was distraught at his father's death and caught the culprit and had his tied to an elephant's leg and dragged around till he died.

Tomb of Jamsheed Quli Qutb Shah (2nd Sultan)

To the right of Jamsheed's tomb lies the tomb of Sultan Quli Qutb Shah (1st Sultan - 1518-1543), which is much smaller than the others. It is also adjacent to the tomb of Jamsheed's son Subhan who was king for a year or less.

Tomb of Sultan Quli Qutb-ul-Mulk (1st Sultan)

Subhan Qutb Shah (3rd Sultan - 1550-1550) 

Tomb of 3rd Sultan Subhan Qutb Shah 

Tomb of 3rd Subhan Qutb Shah (in foreground)

We retraced our steps back, past the Hamam Boali and come upon the tomb of Sultan Mohammed Qutb Shah (6th Sultan - 1611-1625). He was the son-in-law and nephew of Mohammad Quli Qutb Shah who had only one daughter - Hayath Bakshi Begum (also called Ma Saheba). Mohammad Qutb Shah was an inclusive man as well and tolerant of Hindu religions and languages. He wanted to move his capital away from Golconda and Hyderabad and started to build a fort near SaroorNagar called Sultan Fort which was never completed as he died.

Interestingly, Mohammad Qutb Shah was told when his son Abdullah was born that he must not see his son for twelve years, else he would die. Hayath Bakshi Begum made arrangements for the son to live in a separate complex in a place now called Sultan Nagar so the two would not meet. Unfortunately, they both came face to face before the boy's twelfth year and Mohammad Qutb Shah died after a while.

The tomb has a green top, green tiles perhaps, and is stunning to see.    

Tomb of Mohammed Qutb Shah (6th Sultan)

The twin tombs of Taramati and Premamati. A little further down we come to the twin tombs of Taramati and Premamati who were considered great artists - singing, dancing in tandem they earned great name for themselves. They lived in the era of Abdullah Qutb Shah in the 17th century. Taramati baradari which exists today was where Taramati would sing from and the acoustics were such that Sultan Abdullah could hear her from the fort. There is a mosque built in honour of Premamati which one can see from the Taramati baradari.  The carvings on the outer walls of the mosque have been made by craftsmen brought from Vijayanagar empire.

Taramati's tomb to the left and Premamti's to the right 

And as we turn to head back, we see another magnificent tomb, the tomb of Begum Hayath Baksh also known as Ma Saheba. As the only daughter of Mohammad Quli Qutb Shah and the wife of Mohammad Qutb Shah, she knew the art of governance well so when Mohammad Qutb Shah died with Abdullah still a mere twelve year old, she took over as regent and administered the kingdom. The langar procession which was practiced till 1918 was started by her to celebrate the return of Prince Abdullah who, as a child got carried away by an elephant and returned unharmed after a whole week. The Masab Tank is named after her and Hayath Nagar is named after her as well.  

Tomb of Begum Hayath Baksh Ma Saheba (Ma Saheba Tank - Masab Tank)

Loved the outing.